How to Build a Window Screen | Repair and Replace


Hi I’m Vance and welcome
back to repair and replace. Today I’ll show you how to build
a window screen and frame from scratch. This includes fiberglass
and aluminum screens. If you’re only replacing the screen,
then watch the video linked below. To begin, you’ll need,
frame bar stock, corner pieces, screen mesh, pull tabs, spline, spline tool, a hacksaw, flat blade screwdriver, a file, utility knife, scissors and duct tape If your window has an
old screen and frame, then use it as a template to measure
the width, height, and frame thickness. If you don’t have a reference, then measure from the top
of the window down to the bottom of the pane. Now measure the sides. Finally measure the frame thickness. Frame bar and corner pieces come in
1/4″, 5/16″, 3/8″ and 7/16″ thicknesses ( all 3/4″ of an inch wide) Now choose the frame bar size which is
one size down from that measurement. If you measured 3/8″,
then get a 5/16″ bar and corner pieces. Next measure the channel width
and select your screen and spline. For an aluminum screen, choose a spline diameter
of the same size or slightly smaller, as the aluminum mesh will take up
some space in the channel. Aluminum screens are thicker
and more durable but have a memory, which means when you set it into the channel,
you only have one chance to get it right. For a fiberglass screen, choose a spline with a slightly
larger diameter than the channel width. Overall, fiberglass screens are thinner,
and are easier to cut and install. They are more forgiving if you don’t get the right fit
the first time, but be careful not to rip the screen. Both aluminum and fiberglass screens
are available in a variety of widths from 2 feet all the way
to 6 feet or more. Meshes that are 3 or 4 feet wide
should fit most household windows. Now that you’ve assembled your materials,
measure the frame bar and cut your pieces. If you measured the window, then the screen frame should be 1/8″ shorter
than the height and width measurements. This will leave enough room
for the frame to fit. If you’re using the old screen as a
reference, then this doesn’t apply. Since each corner adds 3/4″ ,
subtract 1-1/2″ from the total. Next measure and mark each length. Use the hacksaw and cut each piece. Remove any burrs from the ends,
as they might be a little sharp. Now assemble the frame making sure the channel
is continuous through the sides and corner pieces. To make it easier, you can use duct tape
or clamps to secure the frame. Now place the window tabs into the channel,
with the tabs pointed downward. These will sit below the screen. Lay the screen on top with at least
1 inch of overlap on each side. Trim any excess material. For aluminum screens, you’ll have
to pre-shape and indent the screen using the convex side
of the spline tool. Hold the screen tight and roll the tool back and forth
till the screen forms nicely into the channel. Now push the spline into the
channel to get it started. Flip the tool over and use the concave side
to roll the spline into the channel. Keep some tension on the screen
and continue to indent, and lock each adjacent side
until you complete the entire frame. For fiberglass screens, you
don’t have to pre-shape the screen. Push the spline in to get it started. Use the concave side of the spline tool,
and roll the spline into the channel. Keep the screen tight as you roll the
spline all the way around the frame. Now cut the spline and push
the corners down into the channel. Finally trim the screen. Use the spline as a guide and
run the razor knife down each side Now that the new screen is constructed,
it can be installed into the window. If you liked this video,
leave a comment below! To keep up to date with
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42 thoughts on “How to Build a Window Screen | Repair and Replace

  1. Watched several different videos on this subject and this was described the best out of all I saw. You hit every step and question that I had. There was no need to go look at anyone elses video. Thank you.

  2. New Video Posted! Its that time of year where heavy rain can flood your basement. Learn how sump pumps work to prevent flooding and how to choose a replacement pump: https://youtu.be/Iqh3rI2XX4o

  3. Thankyou Vance you make it sound so easy but I will give it a go. Geoff from Busselton Western Australia

  4. Thanks for the informative video! Btw at 1:28 you mention getting a smaller thickness of the frame and say that if we measure 3/4", we should get 5/16"…I think you meant 3/8" instead of 3/4"

  5. I really appreciated your concise instructions during this demo and noticed that no retention clips were used. I found elsewhere on the Web–perhaps it was another YT clip–instructions that included such clips. They were installed on the parallel frame bar opposite the tabs and apply enough pressure to maintain a tight fit. So, for the measurement of the perpendicular frame bars, you would deduct 1.5" for the corner connectors plus .5" for the retention clips. Thanks.

  6. Couple of corrections to my 1st comment: 1) they're called tension clips; 2) you deduct only 1/8" to account for them (see https://youtu.be/lvCA89F_6Rw?t=178).

  7. Very nice video. Clear and concise. Never thought about using duct tape to hold the frame in place. Good tip! Thanks for posting.

  8. I didn't watch this and I knew how to build screens… it's not rocket science and you don't need to measure anything… all done by eye, easy…

  9. Great video with detailed instructions. It was easy to cut the aluminum frames and adjust the corners, but installing mesh was a bit challenge, if you want to make it tight. I spent about 2.5 hours to make 3 screens and they look great. My advice – don’t buy cheap roller if you want to save time and your fingers.

  10. After watching your video I went out and purchased everything you said. Today with the help of my sister I made my new window screen. One down thirteen more to go. I’m replacing all the flimsy screens in my apt.

  11. This company is a joke. Find someone else because you simply can not do worse. They DO NOT back what they sell. It's below freezing in the city last night, my furnace won't come on….  I called the Customer Care Hotline to discuss the furnace switch they sold me, she immediately took a confused, defensive tact. Says it not our responsibility, at no point apologizes, and says I have to go to the manufacturer. She offers nothing more, I have to ask her, "Well, do you have a phone number or something?". She says just a minute and puts me on hold. She comes back 2 or 3 minutes later and says, "Ok, I have a number here." I call the number, it is out of province and closed, no messaging service.

    ????!!!!??? What the hell is that? Seriously messed up company.   I guess my family can just freeze to death tonight or go stay in a hotel because between 2 huge multi million dollar companies they can't light a match and really don't care if it burns down the city when they get a customer to light it for them. LOSERS, LOSERS, LOSERS….. Welcome to Canada home of the innocent, peaceful screw up that has no clue they have ever made a mistake and shocked when somebody doesn't see there greatness.

    Give me a break. And this is not the first time, 3 or 4 times and they have misled, given wrong info or not provided service etc. every time, but never shown one bit of remorse or responsibility….. AMRE = LOSERS and they are going to learn that if it means lawsuits. I am so sick of the detached moneygrabbers, listless staff and egos in employees on the job.

    I mean it's like they don't know YouTube comments exist. The fact they post these videos where I can post my unedited complaints is enough to see they don't know what they are doing….. "mmm, if someone calls because we sold them a bad part, just ignore them tell them to beat it and the problem will be gone", great management.

    Peace

  12. Initially it seemed accurately detailed, but it didn’t make sense to me when you described the size of bar to get. All bars are 3/4 by ? Thickness according to you. So, you said to get one size down from your measurement, example if you measure 3/4 get 5/16. How is 5/16 one size down from 3/4. Per your thickness options I would expect a channel to measure between 1/4 to 1/2. If it measures 3/8 then you would get 5/16. Wouldn’t that be right or am I missing something. Also while your at it you might consider putting a tape measurer in your list of needed items. Otherwise very professional.

  13. Just an update: At 1:27 the line should be "If you measure 3/8" then get a 5/16" bar and corner pieces." (Not the 3/4" measurement that is currently mentioned in the video.) Hopefully this helps clarify this portion of the video.

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