How To Fix, Rebuild & Service Seized Brake Drum – Ford Escort ZX2

Hey, this is another video by Pet Rock. Today
I’m working on a 2003 Ford Escort ZX2. It’s a friend of a friends car where the brakes
are very very weak. I just finished servicing the front. There is a video on that I’ll link
in the description. And now I’m going to service the drum brakes. First thing, obviously you
jack the car up. I like to put the tire underneath the car so in case it does fall off the jack
at least it doesn’t land straight on the, the concrete. Ok, first thing you gotta do
is you gotta take the two Phillips head screws out of the side of the brake drum. Sometimes
these have a tenancy to seize up and be rusted in there. If you’re lucky you can just take
it out with a screw driver with some reasonable amount of force wrist torque. If you can’t
then you can pick up or rent an Impact Driver and the way it works is you stick the Phillips
head in the adapter. Stick the adapter on top of here. Stick the Phillips head in here
and then just whack that with a hammer. As I’m pressing it in, twist it with my wrist
in the direction I want it to turn as I’m hitting it just to give it some added extra
torque. I’ve already popped these so this will come off pretty easily now. Anyway, so
you just remove them and set the screws aside making sure not to lose them. So the next
part is often pretty difficult for some people. It’s to get the drum off. If you’re lucky,
again, it won’t be that rusted on here and you can just, literally just slide it off.
If your not so lucky you should be able to hit it with a hammer. Just hit it in a circle
like this numerous times to get it off. It might help to also spray some penetrating
oil in and around the lug nuts in the hole there and all the way around. Just to give
it a little bit of extra help. The place where it rusts is literally right in here where
it makes contact with the hub. If you are really really unlucky what may have happened
is your brake shoes may have scored a groove in here. Inside the inside of the drum. Which
will give you a bit of a lip. Your brake pads may be inside that little groove so then your
fighting against the brake shoes to get the drum off. So now that you have the drum off
you can take a look to inspect the parts in here. I don’t know the last time that this,
that this vehicle was serviced. It looks like it was a really long time ago because a lot
of these parts are a little bit rusty. This brake pad didn’t even move. I had to whack
it a few times with a hammer to make the pad actually slide within the area that it’s in.
So I’m actually guessing that this pad, this drum may have been seized up. Which is par
for the course with this car because the two front brakes were also seized. There is a
video on how I unseized them that I’ll link in the description as well. Anyway, so once
you are in this state it’s a good idea to just give it a good hose down with some brake
cleaner. And that can is now empty, so switch to another one. And I don’t know if you can
see this but that’s what just came out of this brake drum. That’s nasty. Kinda makes
me wish I put a pan down. Oh well. It’s also a good idea before you start taking anything
apart to take a picture of the drum in it’s current configuration. This will allow you
so you can reference it later to make sure that you get it back in the state that it
was in before you got started. Especially if you don’t work on brake drums all that
often this is a good practice to get yourself into. It’s good to have a set of needle nose
vise grips so you can grab onto these springs and remove them easily. Ok. Now another good
idea to do is to place all these springs and everything, every part that you take off in
an orientation that will match where it came from. That will help, that will at least give
you a little bit of an idea of where it came from. So next I’m going to keep removing some
springs. Put that one at the bottom. So as you can see I’m placing the springs in the
order that they came out of. This is the first spring I took out. This is the second spring
which is at the bottom. This is the third spring I took out. Now there is this pressure
clip right here. This piece right here is a big spring and there’s a pin in the middle
that goes all the way through the brake drum. So what you want to do is you want to press
down on the, on the pin and then use a screw driver or something to push the pin the opposite
direction. And then you take it out. Be careful that spring will bounce. It’s a spring. So
you don’t want it to slip off and smack you in the face. So make sure you are wearing
eye protection when you are doing this job. So now the drum is pretty much loose. You
can separate it from it’s top mount releasing it from the parking brake which is right here.
Set it aside. Now to avoid contaminating the brake pads with any oil. Especially if you
are planning on reusing them, or if you are installing new ones, this is a good idea to
do to new pads. And I like to take a little bit of packing tape and just cover the pad
with it. This will make sure that you don’t inadvertently contaminate it with any oils
or grease or whatever schmoots is on this, is on this brake rotor drum as you’re playing
with it. So it’s just a good idea to protect it. Now test the operation of the parking
brake which is right here. The adjuster. Sometimes this has been known to seize up. Which I think
this one may have. Ok so I scraped off a whole bunch of stuff out of the, out of the bottom
of this. A whole bunch of rust and I don’t even know what that is. Out of the inside
of here just to clean it up a little bit and see what I’m working with. It looks like the
boot for the wheel cylinder is broken. I don’t know how bad the stuff inside is. It sounds
like this wheel cylinder may be just, may be just bad and need to be replaced. Yeah,
that’s brake fluid. So I’m going to tell the owner that that’s something that he should
look into. He just wanted me to look at this, look at the brakes and see what I could do
to improve them. I’m going to recommend that he replace this wheel cylinder. His brake
pads look fine because nothing was actually moving. Now we get to the point where I start,
start trying to just assess thing and put things back together again. So one thing I
noticed is that this adjuster rod is a bit squeaky so I’m going to squirt some white
lithium grease. It’s just standard white lithium grease. You can pick it up at your local auto
parts store. Put it in here. Work it around a little bit so that this thing is free moving.
So you also want to shoot some lithium grease in here in the adjuster. I don’t know if you
can see it. It’s right there. You take it and push it this way and then you can rotate
it. Make sure that it’s free flowing. This is the adjuster that pushes the brake pads
out so that they are still in contact with the brake pads as they wear down. Next thing
we’ll do is take a bit of Emory cloth and and sand down the areas that come in contact
with the brake pads. There is one there. One there. One there. The alternate side is one
there. One there. I don’t know if you can see that with the light. And then one at the
very bottom. Let e see if I can get that in the shot. Right there. So you want to sand
those down a little bit. Take the rust off of it. Make them smooth. Often times after
brakes have been on for a while they sometimes wear a groove in here and you don’t, you want
to try to get rid of that groove so that the brake pads are free flowing. So that’s about
it. Now you take a bit of brake clean. Spray off the area you just sanded. Let it dry.
Additionally if you are going to be reusing the brake pads you want to also clean up the
points of the brake pads that are touching the drum with some Emory cloth. And three,
there, done. Next I want to take some high temp brake & caliper grease. You can pick
it up at most auto parts stores. It’s very good at withstanding high temperatures. Especially
thoughs that are experienced in a brake system. Most grease, like multipurpose grease and
others will literally just wash away. Just dissolve effectively under high heat where
this stuff won’t. It will stick around. Plus it’s got a little bit of a tackiness to it.
So it won’t wash off as easily as regular grease. So you want to take a little bit of
this stuff and dab it on the points that we sanded a minute ago where the caliper. I’m
sorry not the caliper. The brake pads come in contact. So now we’re, now we’re pretty
much done. As far as disassemble and prep, now it’s just putting everything back together
again in the order in which you took it apart. So now I’m going to take the rearward brake
pad and the trick for this one is this little square hole goes over top of this little piece
right here. So you want to have this little piece as far back that way as you can. And
it’s attached to the brake, the emergency brake so if you push the emergency brake this
way you can rotate this pin out, outward and get your brake pad onto it. And into this
little groove that is part of this cable. So then once you’ve got that in there you
can hook it onto the pin that you removed with the spring clip and hook it into the
slot at the very bottom. Next get the other brake pad and hook it’s, it’s square piece
right here onto this piece right here. If you need to adjust this you can pull this
piece right here this way and rotate it all you need. I don’t know if you can see that
on the video. Hooked again. Hooked on the bottom. Get the pin through. And now we’re
most of the way there. Now take the spring clip that you removed earlier. Align it, put
in position. And
press it on. Now do the same for the other side. There. Next our springs. Sorry I keep
reaching across you. Next we’ve got this little itty bitty spring. Yeah, it goes back the
way it came. And it came from here. There we go. Almost. There we go. Now that’s all
the way in. Next is the bottom two hooks
and last but not least. The top spring. And there you go. So now these are relatively
free. Ok. To make reinstalling of the drum easier. you want to have this piece as far
back as you can get it to go. The way you do that is you press this way and pull this
way. To extend that little spring. See. And then you can push this lever in as far as
it will go. Now what that does is this pivot point go that way which pulls this brake pad
that way which ultimately reduces the overall circumference of the brake pads which makes
it so the brake rotor will go on easier. Take the tape off. Take some brake clean, clean
out the brake drum. Rotate the drum so that these holes for the screws line up with the
ones on the brake, sorry on the wheel hub. There you go. Now take these two small screws.
I like to apply a little bit of copper anti-seize. Silver will do just as well. Just a little
bit to the threads. A little dab ‘ill do ya. This will help prevent it from locking up
so that the next time you try to take it off it won’t be as difficult. You won’t need that
impact driver. Because these are Phillips head screws, obviously its very simple, very
easy to strip them if there is too much pressure on them. So just tighten them down nice and
snug. You don’t need to break your wrist in the process. Done. Now you put the tire back
on. I like to put a little bit of anti-seize or chassis grease on the threads here. Again
it also helps prevent them from seizing. If you live in a high rust area or a place where
they use a lot of salt on the roads that will save your butt if you ever have to take your
tire off on the side of the road. Just put a little bit of grease on the threads and
you’ll never have a problem getting your wheel lugs off. So that’s about it. You can do the
same procedure on the other side. Its just reversed. It’s the mirror image of this side.
Just take your time. Just make sure you keep everything clean and that should be about
it. It’s basically the same job as replacing the pads. If you replace the pads you should
do the same kind of thing I did right here where you clean everything off, put anti-seize
on the wear pads and put everything back together again. So that’s it. If you liked this video
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Thanks for watching.

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