How to Rebuild Rear Differential 09-14 Ford F150

What’s up, guys, I’m Andy from 1A Auto. In this video, I’m going to be overhauling
the rear differential on this 2011 Ford F150. If you need parts for your vehicle, click
the link on the description and head over to One thing I like to do before I take a cover
off is make sure that fill plug is able to come out, because if you get the cover off,
put it back on and you can’t fill it up with fluid, then, you’re stuck. Always start with taking the fill plug out. Just use a ratchet and an extension. Pull this plug out. Take that out. There’s plenty of fluid in there. All right, I’m going to remove this cover. You want to make sure you have a drain bucket,
or drain pan underneath to catch the fluid. I’m going to use a half-inch socket, and an
extension, and a ratchet. You can try using a 13 millimeter, but it
seemed a little loose, so I’m just going to use a half-inch. Certain bolts have a stud on the top of them,
you got to just take this little wire retainers off. Pull them out. If they’re stuck on there, you can use straight
blade screwdriver, pull those out of your way. There’s three of those. Remember the location of those. That’s important when you go to put it back
together. Take a deeper socket and a ratchet, and we’ll
take those out. Take this one out, and then, I have one left. I always like to leave the top one in last. I’m going to loosen this up. Not all the way, I’m not going to take it
out all the way, I’ll just loosen it up a good amount of turns. Then, I’m going to take a straight blade screwdriver. I’m going to get in behind the cover. I’m going to have to pry it out. The reason why I leave that bolt in is so
when the cover actually comes off, then, the cover doesn’t go flying off. There we go. Pull that off a little bit. Let it out. Let that fluid drain. You can check the fluid and make sure it looks
okay. I’m not seeing any large metal pieces in there. Now, most of it is drained out. I’m just going to support the cover, take
that last bolt out. Then, I can grab the cover a little. I want to take this drive shaft off. I’m just going to mark the drive shaft to
the yolk. It’s a good idea to do this to prevent vibrations. Just put it back together the way you took
it off, so right there and right there. Loosen up these bolts, there’s four of them. I’m going to use a 12 millimeter 12 point
socket, an extension and a ratchet, or a breaker bar. I’m going to break them free first. I’m going to use a pry bar to prevent the
drive shaft from spinning. I will loosen this up, that will leave some
of the tension on the transmission park pawl. I’m going to take these bottom three bolts
out. Then, I can’t get to the top one, so after
I get these three out, then, I’m going to put the transmission in neutral and then rotate
the drive shaft, and then, take that last one out. Take that last bolt out. I’m just going to spin the drive shaft so
that bolt is towards the bottom, like that. Then, I’m going to put the transmission back
in park. Then, I’ll take this last bolt out. Take that last bolt out, and this is still
on there pretty good, so I’ll just grab a pry bar, get in here, and there we go. Pull that out. Let’s just set that aside. Now, we’ll take the rear wheel off. I’m going to take a 21 millimeter socket and
a breaker bar. Loosen up this lug nuts. Now, we’ll take the lug nuts off. Take that lug nut off. I’m going to take the tire off. This tire is on there pretty good, so I’m
just going to put a lug nut on and hit the back side with a hammer. Now, we’ll take that lug nut back off and
remove the wheel. I’m going to take the caliper bolts out. I’m going to use a 10 millimeter wrench. Take this with the open side of the wrench,
because there’s this damper on here that prevents vibration. Loosen that up, and then, we’ll take the bottom
one. Loosen this one. The top one is not going to come out all the
way because of leaf spring, but that’s okay, just as long as this is loose, then, we can
get the caliper off. The bottom one I can pull out completely. Now, I’m just going to slide the caliper up,
slide it out, just like that. I’m going to pull this screw out, this stud
so that I don’t loose it. Set it aside. I’m going to take the break caliper. I’m going to use one of these hangers. We sell this at I’m just going to slide it there into the
frame. Slide the caliper on there just so it’s supported. You want to make sure there’s no tension on
the hose. Just leave that out of your way. Then, I’m going to grab the rotor. I’ll just slide it off. If the rotor is stuck on there, you can take
a hammer and just hit in these areas. Tap the rust off, because generally, it will
corrode in the middle there. Then, I’m going to do the same procedure for
the other side. All right, so I want to loosen, take this
bolt out, loosen it out, but the ring gear is just spinning. What I’m going to do is take one and one eight
socket and a breaker bar, and I’m going to stick it on the pinion, hold the pinion while
I loosen this up. Loosen this up. Now, we can pull this bolt out. It’s going to have a long stud on the end
of it that holds that pin in. Now, I’m just going to rotate the pinion. Be careful with this pin, it doesn’t just
fall out. Once I get at about that angle, I’m just going
to slide the pin out. Make sure you put it in a safe place. With that pin out, I want to be careful that
these gears don’t move. These are the spider gears. You don’t want them to come out because it’s
very hard to get them back and there’s spacers in there, and some clutches on this side. We want to take the axle up, so I’m going
to push on the axle like that. Just like that, and that gets pushed in. There’s a little horseshoe retainer that holds
it in right there. You can access that with magnet. Just use some magnet. Grab this, and you should be able to pull
it out just like that. There is a little o-ring in there that helps
keeps it in place. Pull that out. Now, we can grab on the axle and slide it
out. Just be careful, hold it up. We don’t want to mess up the seal. It’s a good idea to replace this seal when
you do this job. These seals are brand new, so I’m not going
to. Then, I’m going to do the same with the other
axle. I set up this dial indicator to check the
backlash before I take this completely apart. This isn’t normally what you would do, but
my assumption with this rear end is it was set up wrong, and that’s why I’m getting a
noise, so I just wanted to baseline it before I take it all apart and see how the backlash
is. What the backlash is is basically the play
between this gear and the pinion gear. There will be a little slop, and there’s supposed
to be. There’s supposed to be about 0.008 to 0.012
of backlash. Now, what I’ll do is I’m going to hold the
pinion with one hand and then I’m going to just rotate, rotate the ring, the ring gear
back and forth and see how much backlash I have. Right there, I have almost 0.015 of backlash,
which is way too much. Now, they have different set ups for a dial
indicator you can use. They have some that have a magnet, that would
be more ideal. This situation will work for us. That’s the best I have available right now. I want to check the pattern on this gear before
I take it out. I’m going to use some gear marking compound
and then acid brush. Just mark this gear. We’re going to mark both sides. We just want to … what we’re doing is we’re
going to try to see where the pinion is actually riding on the ring gear, because it needs
to be in a certain location, otherwise you’re going to get a noise, or it’s going to wear
funny. I’m going to take a pry bar, and I want to
pry in here. I’m just going to put a little tension on
the ring gear so that it smashes, it pushed down a little bit and spreads the gear marking
compound, so that we can see the pattern. I’m going to go in one direction first while
I spin the pinion. Once it goes that way, then I’m going to put
the pry bar on the bottom, and then, I’m going to spin the pinion on the other direction. As you can see on this side, that’s where
the pattern is pushing on the ring gear from the pinion. The other side, so it gets pushing right there. As we’re looking at this pattern, we can see
that the pinion was touching right in the middle on this side, which is, this would
be the cold side, which is good. That’s exactly where we want it, right in
the middle there. The depth looks good. It doesn’t look bad at all. When we look at the other side, this is the
drive side, so when the vehicle is driving down the road, the pinion is pushing on this. That’s what’s making the car move forward. When it’s doing that, we have a lot of noise
in this rear end, but right here is where we see where it’s contacting, right there
and right there. That doesn’t look like a good pattern. We want it more in the middle, want it more
in the middle like this area. This area right here, and we want it pushed
aside a little bit. The fact that this vehicle has too much backlash
could be the cause of why this isn’t set up right. Before we send this back together and send
it down the road, we want to make sure this pattern is the way it should be, and right
now, it is not. I’m going to want to take this whole differential
out. I want to take these caps off, take these
bolts off. You want to keep in mind which caps goes where. You don’t want to mix them up. You can mark it with a marker, or this one
actually has two little stamps in on the top side. This one only has one. I know this is the left side, and this is
the right side. Those might not be factory, so you keep in
mind, if yours doesn’t have that, just keep in mind which one goes where. Then, I’m going to take a 19 millimeter socket,
and a breaker bar, and I’m going to loosen this up. Take that out, take this side out as well. I’m just going to support the carrier differential
assembly just in case. It should not slide right out, but just in
case it does. I’m going to pry where the bolts are. All right, I got it loose a little bit. I’m just prying on the side of the case, pushing
on the bolt, sliding that out. I’ll just slide it out. This is very heavy, so just keep that in mind. I’m just going to grab this other shim, this
came out, so keep in mind this was the passenger’s side. All right, I want to take this pinion yolk
off. I’m just going to take two of the bolts, stick
those two in there. I’m just going to spray a little rust penetrant
on here. I’m just going to use a pry bar to prevent
this from spinning. I am going to have to use a pneumatic tool
to get this off. It’s a one in one eighth socket, and a airgun. Take that off like that. I can take these bolts back out. I don’t need those in there right now. All right, so I’m going to need this puller
to get this yolk off. You’re just going to have to be creative with
how you get it off. You have a puller. I am just going to use a pry bar to prevent
it from twisting. The yolk will pull off just like that. I’m going to take a dead blow hammer. I am going to use my other hand and support
the pinion form the inside so that when it goes all the way in, then, I can catch it. Just like that. I’m going to slide it out. All right, so we want to take these bearings
off the carrier, so you can pull the race off. We’re not going to reuse this, so we can throw
this out, but want to pull these bearings off. They make tool kits like this, but our tool
kit is too small for these bearings, what you would do is take this off. You’re supposed to clamp it under here. Then, you can either put this in a press,
or use the other attachments to pull it off. This one is too small, so I can’t use that. They make other style pullers to pull these
bearings. What I’m going to have to do is I’m going
to have to use some air tools. I’m actually going to cut it off with a cutting
wheel and an air hammer, and I’m going to just cut a slice in it, and then, use the
air hammer and push it off. I am going to take some cleaner, some break
parts cleaner, and clean this. Wipe it off with a rag. It’s a good idea if you’re going to reuse
your ring gear to get a damp cloth, or rag and place it on the ring gear so none of the
sparks affect the ring gear. We’re replacing the ring gear anyway, so we’re
not going to use that. I want to cut a little area. I want to make sure wherever my sparks are
going, they’re not going into the clutches, in this hole here. In the area like here is actually pretty good,
because then, you’ll have more room to use the air hammer after. Make sure you have safety glasses when you’re
doing this. Take that screwdriver and just break this. Once you get one of these bearings out, then,
it comes out pretty easy. I’m trying not to cut the carrier. There we go. Let’s spread this part. Hold that right up just like that, all the
little rollers go flying. Make sure you get them out of there. Now, we want to cut this part of the bearing. I’m just going to cut at an angle, so that
I can get deeper into it. You want to be careful when you’re doing this. You don’t want to cut into the carrier too
much. You just want to do a nice slice down there. All right, I did a couple of different cuts. I was having a hard time getting an angle
that I liked that was going to prevent me from digging into the carrier, because I didn’t
want to cut it. I scoured it just a little bit right there,
and over right there. That angle seemed to work pretty good. Now, what I’m trying to do is cut it to the
point where I can actually crack it, so when I use the air hammer, I’m just going to use
the air hammer right here and hopefully, that will crack. Then, I can get this part of the bearing right
off. Now, I’ll take my air hammer, I’m just going
to set it right there with a straight fit on it. Just hammer this away, and I can already see
that it’s starting to come off. You could even try starting with the air hammer
and see if you get the bearing to move at all, but generally, you got to crack the bearing. There we go. It come right off. When we’re cutting, we actually scoured the
carrier a little bit right there, which that’s actually not bad. There’s still a lot of surface there. Don’t be worried if you’re doing this and
you dig into the carrier a little bit. You want to compare your old carrier bearing
to the new ones, just make sure they’re the same size. Those are good. Keep in mind which race goes on which side. We’ll keep this one as this side. We’ll install this. You can use this old piece of the old bearing
to actually help you install it. If you don’t have a press to press these bearings
on, you can actually use a seal installer, or even be creative and use some sockets. You want to just have something that’s going
to push this on the center of this bearing. You want to be pushing on the outside there. We’ll line this up. We’ll just hammer this on. If it starts going at an angle, take this
center and tap it where it’s high, on the high spot. Now, once we get close to the end, the bearing
actually has to seat further down than the side of the carrier. I’m going to take the old bearing and just
stick it on this seal installer like this. Generally, when you’re doing this, all of
the sudden, hammering it, it will sound different. That definitely sounded different. It’s good. Then, I’m going to do the same with the other
side. When I cut this side off, I scoured it a little
bit more, and that’s okay. It’s not going to cost any issues. It’s still going to work, the reason why we
cut it is so that it actually cracks and that relieves some of that tension on the bearing. As you can see, we cut it that much. Then, it cracked all the way up, and same
with this one. Just cutting it that little bit, and there’s
a fine crack. That just relieves it enough just to be able
to pull the bearing off. All right, so I want to press in the bearing
on the other side. I showed you how to hammer in this side, but
before I do that, I don’t want to just flip this over and have this flat on the press,
because I could damage this bearing. The cage is taller than the bearing, so what
I want to do is find something that’s smaller than the bearing so that the cage doesn’t
push on it. Then, I’m going to put that down first, flip
this over. Make sure that’s centered down there. Then, I can take this bearing. I’ll take this piece from the old bearing,
line this up. Take a block of something that will fit under
here, on the press. Then, gently start to press this on. If it starts going crooked, then, loosen it
up, reposition it. This is a little bit easier than hammering
it on, but if you don’t have a press, then, this might not be an option. Press it on till it gets really hard, difficult
to press. Then, just double check, make sure that air
gap is gone. This one looks pretty good. Loosen up. We’re good to go. All right, so now, I’m going to take the ring
gear off. I want to set this down, but because of the
bearing, the way the bearing is, I don’t want the cage to be sitting on the table itself,
so I’m just going to use this little seal installer, sit this down on top of that. I want to take these bolts out. I’m going to use a 21 millimeter socket and
an air gun. It’s extremely hard to get these out without
an air tool. You can try to do it by hand, but because
of the lock tight that’s in there, they’re in there pretty good. I strongly recommend an air tool. These bolts happened to be reverse thread. Sometimes, when you’re doing a rear differential,
the bolts will actually be reverse thread. These are regular. All right, once I take all those bolts out,
I’m just going to leave two of them in, just a couple of finger tight threads. I’ll take a hammer. I’m just going to tap this. Tap the ring off. Pull this off. Pull that bolt off, and slide the ring down. Pull the carrier out of the way. All right, now, I’m going to take some cleaner,
some break parts cleaner and just clear this all off. I flipped this over and take a rag. Clean this off. Some things you want to keep in mind before
we put the new ring gear on, you just want to make sure on these holes there’s nothing
raised up. If they are, you want to take a file and file
them down. This one looks really good though. You want to look at the back of the new ring
gear and make sure there’s no keyway. This one doesn’t happen to have one. Some of them actually have a little marking
on that you have to line up with the carrier, this one doesn’t have one. I’m just going to slide this on. Then, I’m going to take the bolts. I’m going to use a little thread locker on
the bolt. It’s a good idea to replace these bolts, but
if you don’t have that option, just put in a little thread locker on it. Do the other ones as well. Now that I have all the bolts in, I’m just
going to go around and tighten them up evenly, just to get the ring great to set properly. Just go on a cross pattern. You could use a couple of pieces of wood that
are like this high. Then, you could set the ring gear on them. It might make putting the bolts in a little
bit easier. I can take a long pry bar and slide it through
the carrier, through the middle. This way, I can hold it from spinning. Then, I can take a torque wrench with a 21
millimeter socket, just go around and torque this evenly. I’m going to torque this to 111 foot pounds. Just cross rotate. All right, so we want to put a new bearing
on this pinion. This is our old pinion and bearing, but before
we do that, just take a look at the bearing. The bearing looks the same, which is good. The pinion looks the same. This is the outer pinion bearing. There’s a little spacer right there. We’re going to have to put in the new one,
and then, there’s a crush collar right there. We’re going to make sure we have a new crush
collar as well, but before we install this bearing, this is a spacer underneath the old
bearing. What we want to do is we want to take that
spacer out and put it on the new pinion before we put it all together. The correct way to take this bearing off would
be to use a bearing separator similar to this, but you’d want that’s a lot bigger than this. Then, you would have to put it in the press,
and then, press the pinion down, but this one is too small, so I’m not going to be able
to do that. I’m actually going to show you how to take
it off without one of this. I’m going to use a cutting wheel, and we’re
going to cut it off. We’re going to use air hammer, and we’ll chisel
it off. I’m going to start by cutting this cage off
and taking out the roller bearings. Take two straight blade screwdrivers, just
pry this apart. Sometimes, this is kind of hard, sometimes,
they don’t come apart so easy, so I’ll cut the other side as well. Be careful, some of this stuff is going to
be sharp. Once I pop one of this out, the others, it
will come out a little easier. If you’re reusing the pinion, be careful not
to hit any of the pinion. Just hit the cage. That broken, then, I could separate this. Slide the cage right up, all the roller bearing
would fall out. Yeah, a lot of bearings. Now, I want to cut this part because I want
to crack it so that I can slide this part of the bearing off. I’m going to do the same thing. Okay, with that sliced in there, I’m just
going to take an air hammer, and with a straight fit and try to press this bearing off. It’s starting to move, so that’s a good sign. We can see a little air gap in there. It’s struggling to come off a little bit. With that up like that, I can cut a little
bit more. There we go. Get it off. It didn’t actually crack, but I was able to
get a little deeper. I would have been able to crack the bearing,
all that just to take that off. We want to install the pinion bearing on the
pinion. We absolutely don’t want to forget the shim,
it’s very important. I don’t see any difference going up or down. The way the shim came off was this way, so
let me install it that way. It’s very important to put that on. Now, we’re not replacing the differential
case. We’re using the factory shim for this. If you were replacing the case, you’re going
to make sure that the shim is … Then, you would have to measure for what type of shim
to use, but because we didn’t replace the case, we’re doing a ring and pinion the same
as factory. We’re going to use a press to install this
bearing. Slide this in position. If you didn’t have a press, if you found if
you had some type of a tube that go could over here, then, you could potentially hit
it with a hammer, although press is more ideal. Just get this lined up. I’m using part of the old bearing to help
press down the new bearing. Let’s put this piece of metal. Make sure you install the bearings like this,
so that the taper is going this way. If you install them the other way, then, you’re
going to have buy new bearings, because once you install this, you can’t take them off. They do make special adapters specifically
for pinion installers, but we don’t have one, so I’m just going to use a pipe. We want to double check and make sure that
there’s no air gap between there. Once the press seems to be bottoming out,
loosen up the press. You want to keep double checking, what we
actually had to do was put another piece on top of this because the center piece was coming
up higher than our pipe and our bearing. Let me just put this extra added piece on,
and we’re able to get it all the way down. You want to make sure there’s no air gap in
there, and it looks like really tight all the way around. We’re good. At this point, we want to take the old races
and we want to put the new ones in. These are the bearing races. This match to the bearing. You never want to reuse the old basis because
it’s not matched with the new bearings. What we’re going to do is take a punch and
chisel it out, chisel this one, the front one out from back here. Then, this back one here, we’ll put a punch
through the front of the case, and use a hammer and punch it back. We’re going to chisel out the front race first. We’re just going to use a long punch like
this, and there’s a little notch right there. It’s going to be hard to see right there. Take that and I’ll take a hammer and I’m just
going to punch it out. Let’s see if there’s another notch. This one doesn’t have one. I’m just going to go on the other side a little
bit, give it a couple of taps, just go back and forth. There we go. There’s the old race. Now, from the front of the differential, I’m
going to go, and there’s these same notches right here, and I’ll just use the same punch
and a hammer. The front one, you can actually see where it’s a little bit worn. Okay, so before we put the new races in, you
want to keep in mind, right here and right here, on this side, when we’re using the punch,
the punch would ride up against the side of the case right there and right there. There’s a little bit of a bore right there,
what you want to do is we want to get rid of that. You could take a file, or a die grinder. We’re going to use a little die grander, and
just file that down, or even some sand paper. You want to make it even with the rest of
it. It’s okay if you go a little bit low, because
there’s so much surface area that the bearing race is going to sit on. It will be okay, just keep in mind it’s important
that you look to make sure that that’s not there, and same with the front one, too. You’re going to have adjust if there was anything
when you are hammering it out. If there’s any marks on the front one, and
the left we’ll adjust as well. We’re going to install the front race. Just take a little bit of gear oil, put it
on there. You don’t have to do this, but it will make
going in a lot easier. You can put it on the bearing, on the race. Then, I’m going to take a
bearing installer like this, one that fits. This is lined up. We want to make sure this is flushed correctly. We’ll take a hammer, and just hammer it in. You’ll actually hear a difference when you’re
hammering it. Once you hear that difference, then, you know
it’s probably all the way down. You still want to double check from the front
of it and make sure there’s no gap. If you can’t see any gap, then, you’re good
to go. From the back side, you can see the race,
and just make sure there’s no air gap between there and the case. Looks like it’s pretty good. Before we install the pinion and the new bearings
into the differential case, some things you want to keep in mind, you want to make sure
you put the seal back on before we install it, but also before we put the seal on, you’re
going to need to install this bearing, and this spacer. This goes on the back side of the bearing. When we install that, that’s going to go first. Then, the seal, attach that, and then, we’re
ready to insert the pinion. You want to make sure you have the crush collar
on the pinion. If you put this together without the crush
collar, you’re going to have to take it apart again. Then, you want to make sure you use a new
crush collar. You can’t reuse the old one. What the crush collar is going to do is keep
tension between the two bearings so that there’s a preload between the bearings. Basically, it’s keeping the bearings pushed
apart so much so that they’re riding in the exact spot where they need to be. Once that’s crushed down, it’s exactly where
it needs to be. If you crush it too far, and you loosen it
up, you’re not going to have the right tension on it. You’ll only get one shot at this. All right, I am going to take some gear oil. You can take some assembly lube and put it
all over this bearing. Just work it into the bearing, because you
don’t want it to go and dry. Take the bearing, slide that in. Then, I’ll take the spacer. That’s going to go next. Then, I’ll take the seal. Get the seal in position. With that all set, take a seal installer. If you don’t have a seal installer, sometimes,
a block of wood actually works even better. Just install this. Use a hammer. Just double check to make sure it’s down all
the way. The bearing is in there, and the spacer, so
that’s good. With the new pinion bearing on there, I’m
going to take some gear oil, and lubricate the pinion bearing. You can use assembly lube as well. All right, that’s good, double check to make
sure you have your crush collar on this time. Before you put the knot on for the pinion,
it’s a good idea to put a little bit of lock tight on the threads right there. Some on the nut as well. Now, I’m going to slide the pinion in. I may have to use my hand on the other side
to position the bearing. Remember, this pinion is very heavy. Get that like that. Now, I’m going to take my yolk, slide the
yolk over the pinion just like that. I can’t get to any threads, so what I’m going
to have to do is hold the pinion. I’m just going to give this a tap. Put the new nut. Get that started. All right, so what we want to do is we want
to prevent this pinion from spinning, so I’m going to use this tool. It’s not the exact tool made for this, but
it will work for us. I’m going to take one of these bolts from
the yolk, and install it on this tool. I’ll tighten it down with my 12 millimeter
12 point socket. Disconnect this connector right here, this
little tab, just pulling that tab, pull the connector off, just like that. I’m going to use my impact gun and a 28 millimeter
socket and tighten this up. I’m going to hold this bar as I tighten it. I’m going to keep checking it, keep checking
the play on it. I still have a lot of play. I just got to keep going with this. You really need a powerful gun to be able
to crush this crush collar. Just keep that in mind, just keep checking
it, going back. I’m taking the gun and tightening it up. All right, so we’re getting close. Just be careful, just go back and forth. I could see, we’ll be there soon. What you’d normally do is once it’s starting
to get tight, once there’s no more play in there, you can take this and drop it. Normally, it will just stop. One more. Now, it’s
pretty good. All right, just work that back and forth. It feels pretty good. Loosen this up. The correct way to check this would be checking
the drag on the pinion. What you’d want to do is take this socket
and take a torque wrench that has a gauge on it, and you would want to spin this. You’d want to see 20 inch pounds on there,
that’s what the spec is. If it was too light, then, we’d want to go
back and tighten that nut up a little bit more. I don’t have a rotating torque wrench. This is a little bit on the loose side, so
I’m just going to give it a couple more zaps. All right, that feels good. It’s a little bit tighter. Not too tight, if it’s too tight, then, you
have to take it out. Then, you have to replace the crush collar. Just keep in mind, just do a little bit at
a time. This is how you would check it. You’d want to look at the gauge and see. When you’re looking at the carrier bearings,
or even the pinion bearings, you’re going to want to take a look at the race. Use the race from the pinion, and if you look
at it, it looks pretty smooth. Up close, it looks … There’s a little bit
of wear, but not that much. A lot of times, if you have a noise coming
from the bearings, it will be pitted. You’ll see metal chunks missing, and you’re
going to look at the rollers as well. On the rollers, you’ll probably see some chunks
taken out of the rollers. One thing you can’t normally see is on the
inner side of the bearing, now, this is with the rollers cut off a bit, sometimes, they’ll
be chunks in there, and you won’t even be able to see that. What you’re going to want to do is take the
race and just feel the bearing. Just go back and forth, and this bearing actually
feels pretty good. You do the same with the pinion. Now, with the pinion, obviously, the race
is going to be attached to the rear differential. What you can do is just grab the pinion and
just rotate it. Rotate it from the front, and you can see
if you hear anything. This one sounds pretty quiet. Before I install the carrier with the ring
gear, and bearings, I want to clean up this surface, because it’s going to be easier with
everything else. I’ll just take a scrapper, clean up all these
RTV. All right, I’m just going to take some brake
parts cleaner, clean this area up, just wipe it with a rag. My plan is to reuse these factory shims. This one went on the left, this one went on
the right. I’m hoping everything lines up. If everything is good, then, we’ll be good
to go. If it doesn’t work with the factory shims,
then, we can take these shims and there’s different sizes here, and we’ll have to measure
the factory ones with a digital caliper, find out what size they are, and find the equal
amounts on this. We can add and subtract depending on which
side, which way we need the ring gear to go. If we needed to go closer to the passenger
side, we’ll put less shims on this side. If we needed to go more towards the driver
side, put less shims on the driver side. Before we install this, I’m going to take
some gear oil. We’ll just put it on the bearings. Make sure we get those nice and lubricated,
same with the inner bearing. That’s good. Now, this is going to be heavy. I got to take the shims, put them on the outside
of the bearings like that. I’ll just be careful and slide this in position. What I’m going to do is take a rubber mallet
and just tap this in. I’m just going to take my punch and hammer,
and just tap this in a little more. You can beat the differential pretty hard,
just use a plastic hammer. I wouldn’t take a sledge and hammer on this
section or anything, but hitting on the shims is okay. Now, we want to put these caps on and the
bolts in. Remember, on this driver’s side, I had one
dot, at the top of this cap. I’ll just slide that in there, bottom bolt
in. Then, the other side had two dots. Just make sure these are clean, go in like
that, dots at the top. Okay, now, I’m going to use a torque wrench
with a 19 millimeter socket and we’re going to torque these to 77 foot pounds. Okay, so after torquing these caps on, we
go to move my ring gear and there’s no play, which is not good. If I grab the pinion and try to turn it, it’s
too tight. I have to go ahead and take the shims out
and then use the smaller shims and adjust. Right now, the ring gear is too close to the
pinion. We want to back it up, so we’re going to use
a smaller shim on the driver side, and a bigger side on the passenger side. If I take a digital caliper and I measure
the shim that was on the driver’s side, I’m at .28, .280. Then, take the shim that was on the passenger’s
side, I can measure then … that one seems to be about ten thousandths less, which we
can actually switch these. We could take this one, put it on the driver’s
side and take this one, put on the passenger’s side, and see if that brings us back to where
we’re supposed to be. Or, we can actually take these shims, which
these are the universal ones, measure out, and see how thick they are, and just put a
thinner shims on this side, and thicker ones on this side. We’re just going to have to keep checking
it and trying it, and see what works for us. All right, so I torqued these caps back down,
and I actually have zero backlash, which isn’t good, but it actually moves. We’re getting there. I just need to take more out on this side,
put more shims on that side. The shim on the driver’s side is .266, so
what I want to do is take these shims, and the shims in the middle here. You could separate, and the shims over on
the outside like this. This will be .25. Yeah, I want a little bit less than that. I want to take about ten thousandths off. I want to use these little ones out. Put this back together, it’s .248, a little
less than I want it. Okay, so point .250. We’re going to try that, and then, we’ll add
the difference on this side. We took out fifteen thousandths from this
side, added fifteen thousandths for this side, and now, we actually have a backlash, which
is good, and it spins all the way with the pinion. Now, we’re going to check the backlash, make
sure it’s within spec, and go from there. I have my gauge set up. I have it zeroed out. If I just rotate this slightly, about six
thousandths, which is a little on the low side. It want it close to 10. I’m going to take one more five thousandths
shims out of here, and just stick it on this side, and that’s just going to shift it over
just a little bit, and we’ll check it again. Okay, so we set this up again, and put our
gauge on, and we’re just checking the backlash, and we have about eight thousandths, which
is awesome. That’s exactly where we want to be. You don’t want to be too high, you don’t want
to be over twelve thousandths, and you don’t want to be much under seven thousandths. Eight thousandths is awesome, so we’re going
to send it like that. In case you don’t understand what I’m talking
about when I’m talking about backlash in this measurement right here, it’s what it is, is
the ring gear and the pinion, there’s an air gap between the two. If that air gap is too tight, then, when all
these components heat up, it’s going to bind up and cause a lot of wear. Then, if the air gap is too loose, then, you’re
going to get clacking while you’re accelerating and decelerating. That is why it’s important to have this adjustment
adjusted properly. We have the backlash set up, so we’re good
there. Now, we want to check the pattern. I’m going to take some gear marking compound
in a small brush. I’ll just mark this up. Then, mark it up on both sides of the ring
gear. Now, we’re going to check the pattern. I’m going to have a friend turn the pinion
while I use the pry bar. I’m going to put a little pressure on it. What the pressure is doing is making it so
the pattern is going to spread a little bit better. Otherwise, if you just do it freewheeling,
then, it’s not going to have as good of a pattern. All right, you can stop, then, we’re going
to go the other direction. Now, I’m going to pry from the top. All right, go ahead. First, we’re going to look at this side. Now, this area right here is where the pinion
was contacting the ring gear. Now, this is the drive side. When you’re accelerating going forward, this
is where it is pushing on the ring gear. Now, ideally, I would have rather it been
closer to the middle, but that actually looks pretty good where it is. It’s a nice pattern. It’s nice contact. It’s oval. It’s not coming off the edge, which it looks
really good. Then, if I look at the coat side, there’s
a nice oval on this side as well, and it’s pretty close to where I want it to be. Ideally, it would have been closer to the
metal but that looks pretty good. If our pattern didn’t look as good and we
actually had to make adjustments, what we would want to do is change the shims for the
pinion. When you’re installing the pinion, we guess
and we put the factory shim on here. You would have to pull this all apart, take
the bearing off, put the different size shim on and reinstall it. Now, they do make kits to find out which shims
you need. Obviously, that’s a Ford factory part. We don’t have that. We didn’t have that tool to check, so we did
the best we could and just guess. I’m just going to take a rag and wipe some
of this up. Now, I want to rotate this to this position
because I’m going to install the axles, and I’m going to want to put the C clips back
in. All right, so I’m going to slide the axle
in. Be careful not to ruin the seal, and pull
that up a little bit. These are new seals, if you pull this apart
and they weren’t new seals, you might want to install new seals. You just have to pull the axle down a little
bit so that it lines up. We really don’t want to rotate it, we just
want to push it on. Take a hammer and give that a little tap. I’ll take this C clip, slide that position
right there, and then, I’ll just take a little pry bar, come over here, and just pry the
axle out. Just to make sure that that’s in a proper
position, like that, it looks good, and I’ll do the same with the other side. Before we slide this pin in, I just want to
get this bolt that secures the pin in ready. I’m just going to put a little thread locker
on these threads, get that ready. You could slide the pin in. Just rotate this, and we’ll give it a little
tap. Just like that. Take a pin. Slide this in, just like that. I’m just going to grab a three eighth socket
and a ratchet, and we just snug this up. We can use a torque wrench, and as I hold
the ring gear, I’m going to torque this to 22 foot pounds. Now, I’m going to reinstall the axle, the
drive axle. I did mark the axle where it goes on the pinion,
on the yolk, so I’ll make sure that lines up. I’m going to take that 12 point 12 millimeter
socket, an extension and just tighten these down. I got to take the torque wrench, and I’m going
to torque this to 41 foot pounds. Let’s torque this bottom three, and then,
what I’m going to have to do to get to the top one, because you can’t get there with
a socket, I’m going to have to put the vehicle into neutral, rotate the drive shaft, and
then, torque that one as well. We want to clean the cover off. Just wipe out any excess fluid, just use a
rag. I’m just going to take a razor blade. I can use a scraper, I want to scrape off
any of this excess RTV, so I’m just going to take some break parts cleaner, clean this
off. Take a rag, wipe this all down. All right, with a little bit of parts cleaner
and a rag, I’m just going to wipe this down one more time. Now, that our surfaces are clean, I can take
some RTV or gasket maker. Just small bead, not too thick, we go around
the holes. I go around one time, and then, go back and
do the other sides of the bolt holes. Stuff smells like vinegar. Right now, I’m going to go back and go around
the outsides of the holes. Just like that, go all the way around. Now, this is all gooped up, we’re ready to
put the cover back on, and slide this in position. Just like that and there’s two bolts that
have studs on the end, one goes right there, and the other one goes right here. I’ll get those started first, and I’ll take
the other bolts and get those all started. Actually, there’s three studs on it, and you
just put the other one, I guess. There. I’ll take my half inch socket and a ratchet,
and I’m going to start snugging this down. I like to go across from one another, tighten
it down evenly. Now, I’m going to go back around and torque
these bolts to 33 foot pounds. I just went around again and torqued them. Very good. Take this wire harness and slide this on a
studs. All right, so while I let that rear cover
dry, I’m going to put the breaks back together. Take the rotor. Line that back up in position, and we’ll take
that caliper off the hanger. Before I install the caliper, I’m going to
have to slide this caliper bolt in that has this extra dumper on it. This one goes on the top. Slide it in a little bit. Then, we’ll slide the caliper with the lower
part of the break pads first. Slide that on like that. Then, I can take the other caliper bolt, slide
that in position. We’re going to tighten this down. I’m just using a 10 millimeter wrench on this
top one with a damper. You can’t get a socket on there. Ideally, if you could torque this, you’d want
to torque this to 22 foot founds, with that 10 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. Just torque this to 22 foot pounds. Now, put the tire on and the lug nuts. I’ll take the socket and just snug this down. Now, I’m going to use a 21 millimeter socket
and a torque wrench. I’m going to torque these lug nuts to 150
foot pounds, and I’m going to torque them in a star pattern so that the wheel gets tightened
down evenly. Just go around again, make sure it’s all good. I’m going to do the same procedure on the
other side. I want to remember to add my fluid. Before I add gear oil to this vehicle, this
vehicle has a limited slip differential, so I’m going to use limited slip additive. First, I want to put that in before I put
the actual gear oil in. Now, I can add the appropriate gear oil. I got the fluid fallen off so that it’s just
draining out the fill plug. I’m just going to let that drain for a little
bit. You want it right up to the bottom of the
fill plug. All right, I’m going to take the fill plug,
put it on my extension with my ratchet, and I’m just going to put a little bit of pipe
sealer on here, that’s going to just help it seal up a little bit better. Take that fill plug. Get that started, and I’ll use my ratchet
extension. I’m just going to snug this up. Once it starts slowing down, then, I’ll just
give it another quarter turn. That’s pretty good. You don’t want to tighten it too much where
it actually goes into the case, or cracks the case. Now, I’m going to take some break parts cleaner
and just clean this all off. Because we disconnected the brake, we’re going
to want to pump the brake pedal just to make sure everything is tight. There could be an air gap between the rear
calipers and the brake pads, so it feels tight. Just make sure you do that before you take
it for a ride. Thanks for watching, visit for
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