Pinarello Dogma F12 & FSA K-Force WE | Super Bike Build


(sharp music) – Our friends at FSA have sent over a brand
new K-Force WE groupset. We just happened to have a Pinarello F-12 frame set lying around and so this video is going
to show the process of me building a genuine super-bike. (gentle music) Dan what are you doing? – Oh I am practicing. – Do you have to do it here? (rock music) FSA have been refining and
tweaking their groupset for a couple of years now but this season marked a milestone. They got their first ever
Grand Tour Stage victory next to BH Burgos rider
Angel Madrazo at the Vuelta. Now this is more than just shifting. Now this is a complete groupset. In addition to the legendary
FSA cranks, of course, we’ve got cassette, we got
chain and we’ve got brakes. This one being the disk version. Let’s get started. We just very gently holding
our frame by the top tube. Not clamped in any way. The reason being we haven’t
got our seat post attached yet and you’ll understand why very shortly. So this F-12 launched in May of 2019. It’s a little bit lighter
than it’s predecessor the all conquering F-10
and also more aero. You’ll see why in just a moment. The first step now though is actually root the wires for the derailleurs
and also the hydraulic hoses. Now because the groupset is semi-wireless it means that you get shifters
that communicate wirelessly with the derailleurs by
Bluetooth and Amp Plus but the derailleurs
then connected together and to a battery, the
theory being much larger which means it last longer but
you still get all the benefit of a super clean front end as well. (soft bouncy music) Now this, obviously, is a mechanical cable and it comes with the groupset ’cause attached to the
other end is a connector that you can plug the wire in. ‘Cause this is a little bit stiffer. Basically it should thread
a little bit more easily through our internal cable routing. (soft bouncy music) ♪ Hallelujah ♪ (laughing) Tape this in place. Just so it doesn’t
accidentally slip back inside. And front railer. Let’s get the battery
in place now, shall we? The reason why we
haven’t had our seat post in the frame up to now,
is ’cause this, of course, is where our battery lives. So it fits snugly inside. 7.4 volt lithium ion battery. So FSA reckon you get between
four and six thousand K’s of riding before you need to charge it. And then there are two
connectors, of course, for our cables that we’ve
just threaded through. (soft bouncy music) Wires are in securely taped at this end and in the battery that end. Seat post is now in, meaning
that we can move the frame from its perilous
position on the top tube, to clamp securely by the seat post now because the next step
is our hydraulic hoses. The exact way that you
thread a hydraulic hose through a frame is going to vary
depending on the exact frame that you have but in this instance I’m going to need a
little bit helping hand from a Park Tool internal rooting kit. So I’ve got an external magnet here and then I’ve got this end here which got a little thread
on and is also magnetic. I’m going to send this
one through the frame, guide all the way through
’til it gets to the front end of the bike and then I can get my hose, thread it on the end here and then pull it gently
all the way back through. (soft bouncy music) When we touched earlier on
the aerodynamic improvements of the F-12, part of
that can be attributed to the super clean front end. We’ve got one piece, bar and stem, but the ace card is the
fully integrated brake hoses. We don’t need to worry about
our shifters, of course, ’cause they’re communicating
wirelessly with our derailers but our brake hoses leave the levers thread underneath through the bar and then you’ll see
they go through the stem before exiting in to our top cap and you’ll see it was a place either side of the steering tube for
the brake hoses to go. You can get two types of hoses
with the K-Force WE Groupset. One with a quick adapter where it comes ready bled, ready to go. You simply plug it into the
calibers and away you go but on this one because the
rooting’s a little bit tighter we’re going to go for a standard one where we’re going to need
to fit an olive and a barb at the end and then bleed it ourselves. Levers next, gloves back on, of course, just in case any brake fluid escapes. It’s mineral oil in this case actually. And now the reason we’re
doing this now is so that we can securely fasten
the brake hose to something, the best thing, the lever, so that when it’s done being
threaded all the way through the frame of the fork, we know
that it’s securely in place and then we can then get it to
the right length and cut it. (soft bouncy music) (ripping) (soft bouncy music) (snapping) (ripping) (soft bouncy music) Looking a bit more bike like. Next up, we’re on to derailleurs. So this bit here, this is
the brains of the operation where we’ve got the receivers so this is what connects
up to our shifters, Amp Plus and Bluetooth, remember. So yeah, the brains. A bit like the Daniel Lloyd
of bicycle components. But probably smarter. I’m kidding Dan, I’m kidding mate, c’mon. Before I attach it, I just show you that’s where the wire connects in there and there’s a little
pinch bolt just next to it and you snug that in just to make the connection extra secure. Nice touch. (soft bouncy music) Now this is very cool rear
derailleur in the sense that normally they’re made with
like a parallelogram system but this one is actually
a robotic arm instead. Yeah how good is that? Like a little gear box inside. (soft bouncy music) This little device is a Park
Tool hydraulic hose cutter. Now because we said we’re not
going to use the quick adapter, we’re going to have to
cut our hose to length. So FSA said you make a mark on the hose, in this case I’m using electrical tape, in line with a caliber and then add ten
millimeters onto that, okay? But worth bearing in mind that I’ve actually pushed as much slack in the hydraulic hose as I
can up back inside the fork, just to give me a little bit of leeway in case I need to make
any adjustments later on. Be it to the angle of my levers or maybe, dare I say it, out of
space here on the stem. (soft bouncy music) (clanking) I brought a bracket. Now this being a Pinarello it, of course, has an Italian threaded bottom bracket. This, believe it or not, is my first ever Italian threaded bottom
bracket that I’m going to fit. So I’m going to remind myself that both sides screw in clockwise, okay? So it’s different from an English thread. Happily, FSA have actually put arrows on the bottom bracket cups as well, so I can’t possibly get it wrong. And now you notice these are kind of cool in that FSA’s crank
diameter spindle is 30 mil and so even though this is
a threaded bottom bracket you’ve also got these
beautiful oversized cups that sit outboard to allow us to run that BB386EVO, crank standard. All right, bit of grease, and let’s go. (soft bouncy music) (clanking) (clanking) (soft bouncy music) Check these out. These are the WE specific cranks. Those are super cool. Look at that. (soft bouncy music) (gear clanking) (clinking) (bike parts clanking) (soft bouncy music) (swooshing) (clanking) (soft bouncy music) Who doesn’t love a brand new cassette? Okay that… So half of it, this bracket’s
made out of titanium then the other half,
carbon reinforced steel. (clinking) Look at that. Now this one is the 11-32 option. FSA has three different
sizes, 11-25, 11-28, and then, of course, this one. Same rear derailleur for all of them. It fits across. So I’ve got a low gear
on this bike of 34-32. (soft bouncy music) (whirring) (clanking) (soft bouncy music) (soft clanking) (whirring) (soft bouncy music) (soft whirring) (fast whirring) All components fitted. We now need to make them work. So first we need to pair up our shifters with our derailleurs. So to do that, I need to remove the battery cover on the
levers to get a little button. (soft bouncy music) Ah-ha! So first thing, hit that paring switch into pairing mode. Then turn the front derailleur on. Then press set so it goes green. Then I need to press
and hold the on button until we get a blue light. There we go and then that one goes out. Come out set mode and you ready? (whirring) There we go. Let’s get these gears working
super smoothly, shall we? So we need to index them. For the rear we need to pop
the chain on the sixth bracket, so bang in the middle. Then we need to press the set button on the front derailleur. There we go. And now, here’s a cool bit, right, so you tell the system which
derailleur you want to adjust by (clicking) flicking a switch. So in this case I’m now adjusting the rear and then it’s now in micro-adjust mode. (soft whirring) So actually it sounds pretty
good already, doesn’t it? But if you have a look just moving the derailleur
very fracturally and a bit like normal indexing you basically want to get it
to the point where it’s just, (whirring) just wants to overshift. There you go. That’s the point. And then now back it off two clicks. (clicking) There we go. (clicking) Sweet! Front derailleur now, similar process. So we open set mode. There we go. And we tell the system
that we’re working on, the left shifter now, (revving) by clicking that button. (hard whirring) But then here’s the cool
bit, so the micro-adjust is now the right hand shifter. So meaning you can still
use the left hand shifter to actually change gears. (whirring) Brake bleed now, we’re onto the final lap. (soft bouncy music) (ripping) Bleed block. (soft bouncy music) We pull open the end. (soft bouncy music) So near, but yet still so far. We’ve got a bit of tidying up to do. Starting at the front end. So the headset is not adjusted. The front wheel and the
handlebars are not pointing in the same direction. And also we still have to
fully integrate my cables. So this just sits underneath
that handlebar stem. So a couple of last jobs before bar tape. (soft bouncy music) (soft clinking) (soft bouncy music) One final adjustment of the hoods. Just to make sure they’re level
and also in the right place. Once the lever’s in the perfect position, remember as well that you’ve
got reach adjust on these, so a little 2.5 mil allen key bolt at the top of the lever there. Also with bearing in mind you’ll see that levers come in different sizes. After all of this bike building I have a feeling that the one
thing I’m going to be judged on is the quality of my bar taping. And it’s true I’ve never
felt such pressure before. I don’t think I’ve ever
taped such a super bike. Of course, go for full white
’cause why would you not. (heavy music) Now a little pro tip that
I learnt very recently is that on tap like this
where you got the logo on in order to get the
logo in the right place you’ll have to tape it the same direction. When in actual fact, you’ll either want them
both in or both out. So the tip is to actually just start from the other end of the reel. Unroll it all and then go
from the other end, genius. (heavy music) Whoo! (dramatic music) Woohoo! Check it out! How nice is that? I mean seriously, how nice is that? Including, I think you’ll
agree, the bar tape. Oh yeah absolutely. I’ve got to say I think that is one of the hottest
bikes I have ever seen. Make sure you let us know
in the comment section what you think about it. And also would you like to see anymore of this type of video. Anymore bike builds. If you would then please give
this video a big like as well. If you want to see another vid right now then why not check out Dan’s first look of the FSA K-Force WE groupset
when he went to ride it with none other than Ivan Basso.

100 thoughts on “Pinarello Dogma F12 & FSA K-Force WE | Super Bike Build

  1. I loved this video. The background music was fantastic and there was just something very therapeutic about watching a bike come together.

  2. Si, as with cars and all things electronic, when the battery runs flat, all things don't work. Still prefer the traditional non-battery operated.

  3. FSA have never made any great kit!
    Someone,I know in the trade for over 40 years,told me every time he went in
    the wholesalers,there was a bin filled with broken FSA parts.

    Most people go for bland,boring Shima(NO!) kit,as they don't want to stand
    out,but get very jealous if you have the best from Italy!.
    People who have cycle passion,love and have Campagnolo!

  4. Great video but I think you forgot the link to win…. It's kind of an unboxing, right? Since it's Christmas time and I'm in a giving mood, I'll save you the hassle & you can just send it to me. 🙂

  5. To Call it a "super bike" with Vision wheel's? Hahaha , let's say more of a "super" frame , on a cool fsa system that has a Ugly crankset… And white tape,hahaha

  6. Who are these freaks that give this videa a thumbs down? Lonely, angry and jealous peeps I suppose. What a sweet looking ride. How long would it take a true bike mechanic to put that together do you recon? Not that Simon is um, not a pro… just a guestimate.

  7. Can that battery be recharged through either of the derailleurs? Or do you have to remove the seat post to have direct access to the battery?

  8. The battery for the FSA groupset is in the seatpost? Does that mean you have to remove it each time you need to recharge? Hmmmm….

  9. Two things…. White bar tape (YUK) and how much air do you need in the system, is that a special requirement????

  10. Amazing bike and great vid, buuut…. White bar tape🙈 why? and differing tyre logos not lined up with the valve😣. Love the channel 😘

  11. But the real question is how do you like this grouppo? I want to try it, but don't know if I should risk my money on FSA

  12. Oh just this old thing we had knocking round, in my dreams! probably helps having Pinerello as backers seeing they have all changed over

  13. I'd rather go for Louis Vuitton with battery rather that road bike with battery . The first wont kill me on the slope if the bettery 's gone 🙂

  14. FSA has a disc version of the groupset? I don't see it anywhere…. not even any road specific disc brakes from FSA (13:50)

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