Yamaha F225 Outboard Exhaust System Rebuild | Yamaha 225 Exhaust Kit | Boats.net


Hello, John Talley here with Boats.net, net
and in this video we’re going to show you how to install the exhaust repair kit on our
2004 Yamaha F225. Now if you’ve been keeping up, we actually
have rebuilt the engine and the lower unit completely. The only thing standing in our way now is
this midsection. Now it looks like somebody has gone in and
installed a kit on this particular engine, but I can’t trust that. So let’s step over to the table take a look
at that one part number that has 22 different parts inside of one big box that addresses
the corrosion issue for this particular make and model. Let’s go. So here it is. The one part number from Yamaha that addresses
the corrosion issue on our particular outboard. I believe it’s 22 individual parts that comprise
this kit that address all the different areas that can be affected by corrosion. Now as far as any special tools, I will call
those out as we go along, but chances are the only one that we’re gonna need is just
an accurate torque wrench. Everything’s laid out, let’s head over and
start getting this installed. As you can see, we’ve already removed the
lower unit and the power head, and if you need instructions on how to do that, why don’t
you check our playlist and we can walk you through that process. Now with those two pieces removed, we can
actually start addressing the exhaust kit. As you’re going through this or any other
project, do yourself a favor: keep a supply of Ziploc bags with a sharpie so you can keep
up with what parts went to which section. Because I guarantee you, put this is one big
pile, it’s gonna be much more difficult to get it back together. Because if you’re like me, I can’t remember
things more than three days. It just doesn’t happen. Let’s start with the linkage. It’s gonna bind up on me for a minute. Go ahead and get her lifted off. Well someone has definitely done the corrosion
kit on this particular midsection, but like I said in the opening, I’m not going to trust
that. We’re gonna go through and replace it. If you want to see just how bad the corrosion
was on this one, look at the bottom end tear down. It actually ate all the way through the crankcase
itself coming from the water jacket straight into where one of the oil passageways was. And when you filled it up with oil, oil ran
out through the exhaust. It was bad. Real bad. I’m fairly certain that we drained the oil
before we started this process, but we’ll go ahead and make sure. Then we’re going to go ahead and remove this
outer cover and then that inner damper. What you’re seeing there shouldn’t happen. As predicted, whoever did this they still
made a few mistakes. There’s supposed to be a damper in between
the outer part of the old tank in the inner, and it’s not there, and so that’s what allowed
the oil just to drain straight through the exhaust and that’s not what we want to happen. So I’ll add that to my parts list and get
it ordered as well. We could’ve done this earlier. Let’s get the shift shaft removed and out
of the way. Alright, for the shift shaft, you just need
to carefully pull it straight up and it’ll come through that grommet. There we go. Alright, yeah both the top and the bottom
what you’re working with are two 19’s. Work them all the way out till the nylon locknut
is almost off and then you can just take it off by hand. It does have a fair amount of weight to it,
so be ready when you do it and have a place to go. Be careful of these edges that they are sharp
and they will open you up. Yeah, be careful. There’s a nylon tube here on the bottom that
we don’t need to damage. Looks like this wire is actually part of the
ground strap system. Obviously it’s broken so we’re going to replace
that as well. Otherwise, this is going to corrode as soon
as we put it back in the water, and after all this work I’m not going to let that happen. Alright, just set her up straight. You may want to work with it on its side. I’m gonna leave it upright so you can watch
me get it broken down the rest of the way. Let’s get this thing broken down. Now if you’re doing it like I am, be a little
careful. It’s a bit top-heavy. This is just a retaining bracket for this
little piece right there. Up front. Fun, fun, fun. For the most part all we’re gonna need from
here on out, it’s going to be the bolts, but we’ll go ahead break it down. This pickup tube isn’t looking too good but,
we’ll go ahead and pull it down. It looks like they’ve done it correctly so
far, but I don’t like the fact that they reinstalled a corroded pickup tube. We are going to go and replace it. A few more bolts to get out and then it’ll
officially be broken all the way down. And when you get it to this point, there’s
going to be four bolts with this internal section that you need to get and then there’s
two more right over here. And at that point she should lift up. There we go. Then two more over here. Chances are, the customer that owned this
said “yeah, got that corrosion issue, we’ll go and put the corrosion kid on it and that
should fix the problem.” No. She was way, way too far gone for all of that. There we go. Well there it is. It’s broken all the way down. The only thing I have to do now is transfer
over the dowel pins and gather up all those bolts, that way we can start putting together
everything that was on that table that I showed you in the beginning of the video. So, let’s get to it. We’re going to go ahead and add a little bit
of grease inside of that seal, so when the time comes to get the shift shaft through
there it’ll go through a little bit easier. I’m gonna put a little bit of grease on this
o-ring so it seats up against the surface without tearing. And they call this a seal, but what it’s sealing
I’m not exactly sure but this is where it goes. Let’s go and get our oil pickup. Make sure that it has its a ring down on the
bottom. And once again you’re just using or reusing
the old bolts. Yep. Make sure we got our dowels in place. Alright guys, just want to pause for just
a moment and show you that with the ’04 and newer kit they actually send out two gaskets,
and they look really, really similar. You’ll notice on this end there are several
more holes drilled compared to this one. Now they didn’t do this by accident. That’s because mid-year they actually made
a change in the upper casing. And what you want to look for is to see if
there is a six millimeter hole drilled about right here. Now mine does not have that hole. So which gasket do I use? Well, it’s pretty easy. If yours has that hole you use the one with
the extra holes drilled in the gasket. If it does not, like mine? Then you want to use this one. So that’s the one we’re going to get installed. Just make sure you put it in the right one
because it would be a huge pain in the tail to go back and then discover you’re wrong
and have to pull it all back apart. So that being known, let’s continue. Those two dowels in. Got that in correctly. Now, remember these aren’t bolted together,
so you need to hold it from the that bottom plate. So we’ve got our bolts cleaned up, and we’re
gonna put a little bit of Loctite down on the threads and then we’re gonna torque them
to 14 foot pounds. You don’t have to get super carried away with
the amount that you put on the threads. As they do want you to put on red, but there
may come a time where you may want to take this back apart and if you put too much it’s
gonna be real tough to get them back out. No I’m not going to torque it with this, this
is just to get them to seat. 14 coming up. Make sure. Looking good so far. There’s two more in there that we need to
get. Gonna drop our gasket in, and we’re going
to have this seal surface facing up. Then get our pass-through tube in place. Little bit of Loctite. Then we’ll maneuver our bolts in. Probably using a magnet. Now all I’m doing here is holding it and then
pushing it off from the side. No great trick. Same torque number on these: 14 foot-pounds. First we have a seal that goes here, a couple
more dowels, a gasket, then our plate. Another gasket like that. Here’s where we set out the pickup tube. This actually goes all the way up to the neck
through here. You want to kick it out where this section
is pointing even with here. Same torque as the other: 14 foot-pounds. Couple more seals then we can get it lowered
into the casing and get it bolted down. Then one up at the front. Let’s get these rearward bolts put in, then
all we have left to do is put on that bottom cowling. We’re gonna take these seven bolts at the
back to 30 foot pounds. And like I said, the other two up front to
14, but no Loctite. Look the bolts that they had in there are
the same length. They’re not supposed to be the same length. So I went and ordered four new ones. That’s what we should be seeing right here. This is the top, then this is the bottom. So apparently whatever shop this outboard
was at previously, they got a little confused. Maybe they were working on two or three units
at the same time and the bolts got misplaced. So now that we know exactly which ones are
supposed to go in there, let’s put it together. We will start up top and then straighten out
the bottom, and at that point we’ll be able to get it remounted. Get our correct bolt. Straight through. Get our cap. Still set to 39, let’s go. Alright so I’ve got it set up, now let’s put
it together. Alright washers at the bottom, nothing up
top. Let’s go. Now let’s get them tightened down. These are gonna be set to 52. Piece of cake. Once I get the other side, then we’re gonna
go back and tighten those lower cap bolts to 39. 53 coming up. Let’s go back and get those. Now let’s go ahead and get that pass-through
for the oil drain that wasn’t installed before. Now our drain bolt with this washer. We’ve got her set up, let’s get the lower
cowling back on and then we’ll almost be finished with this. Let’s get or lower cowling in place. Now we can get in our upper shift shaft. Give it a little bit of grease on it, make
it easier to get through that upper grommet. There she goes. At this point in the game, be careful you
don’t want to drop anything down into the the oil tank. I’m sure you could probably fish it out, but
why put yourself through that much pain. Well all right guys, that pretty much wraps
this one up. What’s going to happen next? Well we’re gonna reinstall that powerhead
that we rebuilt as well as the lower unit, and if you want to be notified when that happens
why don’t you go ahead and hit that subscribe button. That way you’ll know when we release those
other two videos. Just want to give a quick shout out to Michael
Rudy and Joshua who requested this particular procedure. Thanks for leaving the comments, and see? We do read them. We just want to say thank you for shopping
here with us at Boats.net and we will see you in the next video. Y’all have a great day.

1 thought on “Yamaha F225 Outboard Exhaust System Rebuild | Yamaha 225 Exhaust Kit | Boats.net

  1. Hello John, I have a 2003 225 Yamaha with 570 hours and I’m trying to determine if my engine has the corrosion issue. Is there a test to do that shows if you have the issue without taking the power head off?
    I see people taking out the lower unit and putting a water hose at the pick up tube, and if water comes out the dry exhaust port then they consider the engine failed the test and needs the corrosion kit…..is the water up the pick up tube an accurate test?
    Thank you

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