Yamaha F225 Outboard Rebuild Part 7: Fuel System Rebuild | Yamaha 225 Fuel Injector Cleaning


Hello, John Talley here with Boast.net,
and welcome back to the next video in our rebuild series of a 2004 Yamaha F225. As you can see, we’ve made some progress: we’ve got the engine put back
together for the most part, we’ve got our wiring harness laid in, but now we need
to turn our attention to the fuel system. This machine has been setting up for a
long time obviously if you’ve been watching any of these videos, and feel
confident that the inside of this VST tank is going to be a mess. But we
haven’t opened it up yet, so I have no idea what parts are going to be required.
I can tell you it’s only gonna take basic tools to get this done, so speaking
of tools let me go up in my toolbox and then we can dive into this project. So let’s get these throttle bodies out
of the way. I’ll open up that VST tank. I cannot wait to see what’s going on
inside of it. If you don’t own one of these, I suggest you get one because it’s
the only tool I know of that can actually have a chance of pulling these
out. Little shock to the system and they’ll come right out most of the time.
I am pleasantly surprised so far, it’s not as bad as I was expecting. So it’s
not nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be in there. What we’re gonna do
is get some contact cleaner– carburetor cleaner– and then start cleaning it out,
inspecting all the o-rings, look at the hoses, see if any of them are cracked or
need to be replaced, and then we can put it back together and actually get it on
the machine and maybe test it. So, let’s get started. So as I said, everything’s
looking pretty good in here so far, but looks can be deceiving.
We’re gonna pull down each component and see if we can do a bench test. I just
want to put a little bit of power to it see if the motor actually turns which I
kind of expect it to. Now when you’re doing this, we are messing with
something that was just immersed in gasoline so the slightest little spark
has the potential to start a fire so you need to be very aware of that when
you’re making connections if you choose to do a bench test of the individual
pumps. Just want to make make that clear. Things can go south in a big hurry. I
want to take a quick peek at our high-pressure pump. For the most part
it’s empty of fuel. It’ll be pulling in from the
side and pushing it out that way, so we want to make sure that’s actually facing
away from us. And it’s actually marked up top as to which one’s positive and
negative. Let’s see what we’ve got. Yep, it appears that this pump is still
functional, so we’re gonna try to use it. What we are going to do is replace the
pickup which has a filter built into it as well as the input which goes into
this plate, also has like a rubber collar. But over time that we rubber will
break down and almost turn it into a jelly and then stop up the whole system.
So we’re in here, now it’s the best time to go and replace all these different
seals, filters, as well as O-rings. So let’s keep going. Let’s dump it out, let’s
see if there’s anything just old gas– kind of had a yellow tinge to it. But
honestly that’s really as clean as you get. The hoses still feel ok, I don’t see
any splitting on them. They are getting a little bit stiff and not super wild
about the the clamps showing some rust because that’s not going to improve over
time. I think what we’re gonna do here is go ahead and pull the hoses off and I am
gonna end up replacing those. Because when it comes to your fuel system, a
small leak starts a fire and I don’t want to be that guy. When you’re dealing
with older hoses like this, if you just grab it from the side and just squeeze
it, twist it a little bit just to get it broken loose. That makes it easier to get
it pulled off. Okay let’s go ahead and test our low
pressure pump with it still attached to the bracket so it doesn’t
try to jump on us. Alright, color coded, red and black, making it easy
for me. Let’s see where she’s got. It isn’t sounding super healthy. Tell you what, just for fun we’re gonna open up a new one and take a
listen to it because uh that doesn’t sound right to me. Let’s see what a new
one sounds like. So yes, they sound a whole lot different. So guess which one’s
gonna go on the engine? It’s gonna be this one. If yours sounded like that other
one, you probably need to order one of these as well. Now we’re definitely going
to go ahead and replace the low pressure or the lift pump, and then we’ll go ahead
and reinstall our existing high pressure pump along with the new filter and the
new seals. We’re just transferring over these little rubber dampeners. They can clamp it back down. Pop it back
in here so we’re not chasing it around the table. I think this one’s
been in here since day one. Look, it was broken right here. So that
was a leak waiting to happen. Got a little bit of corrosion on the
inside of this little ridge or channel. So let’s get it scraped out and then I’m gonna
spray out the whole thing, because everything I’m scraping out, some of us
going into the tank and it doesn’t need to be there. Much better. Our pump has a
filter on the bottom of it, which is this. And then up top, it has a rubber grommet
that goes into the housing. It is the top of the VST tank. So we’re going to replace
both of those. Yeah, huge difference. This is like a brick compared to the new one. And we need to spray that out a little
bit. Yeah it’s like a brick compared to the new one. Uh-uh.
Done, done, done. It’s like it may look alright from the outside, but once you
actually pull it apart and get to actually feel it, you can tell that it
was time to do this. Now if you know this you’re gonna replace a hose and it just
will not release? Take a knife and just slip it down the side where it actually
intersects on the brass. Don’t push so hard that you actually scar the the
brass, but now it should release. Yeah that hose that had it. That needle– little
needle valve which is attached to this float– it looks to be in good shape but I
still want to pop it out and look at the actual tip of it and make sure it’s not
pitted anywhere. So let’s do that. That looks good, stainless. It’s kind of cool
that Yamaha actually has this needle seat where you can remove it if it was
damaged, but it actually looks good. And our needle and this one has a rubber end.
What you want to feel for is to make sure it’s not split so you hold it like
this and just kind of push the tip at 90 degrees to make sure it doesn’t open up
anywhere. This one looks good to go. So slide it back in this channel. Make sure
you put your pin back in the same direction it came out, and in the same orientation. I think it
was about right there. You can’t tap this very hard and run the risk of snapping
this edge. This has a fair amount of scale and gunk down inside. So what
we’re gonna do, we’re gonna go ahead and pull that apart, and if I keep messing
around I’m going to end up bending that tab and then that float’s not going to be
where it’s supposed to be. So let’s take that back off. Now we want see if we
balance it on this little oil pan. And we’re going to fill that little cavity
with some carburetor cleaner/dip. Let it sit, do its job. That should break
it free. Let that sit for a while then we’ll come
back see if we get it cleaned up. And welcome back. It’s actually been
sitting for a day or so, and it seems that the carb dip has done its job and
gotten this reasonably cleaned up. So now I think we can actually just spray it
down with some contact cleaner and get it put back together. Much better. Still
not perfect, but much better. All I’m doing now is just cleaning up the
surface where this o-ring is going to go on this top half. Just had a little bit
of a corrosion from the previous one. I’m going to get that all scraped off, make
sure it’s smooth. That way that way it will seal up properly. While I was
ordering parts, I did decide to go ahead and replace the float needle and its seat
since it is replaceable on this. I mean the one I took took off looked good, but
it’s cheap insurance. We’re going this far on the engine, and why not go ahead
and do it. That way we’re a hundred percent sure that this is not going to
leak and when we put it back together. Our new pieces, we’ll lay that out to the
side for a moment, get the seat in. And then just has this little bracket it
has to go back and hold it in place. Put in this new, I guess you call
it a grommet. Make sure it’s all the way down flush. And our needle in place. Now
we can get our pin back in. Looks like it. Let’s bring it in to seat it. That should
do. Now we can plug in our pump, which we’re gonna reuse the original one. Get that output pressed in. Looks like it.
Alright, so it’s good to go. Let’s go ahead and get our new o-ring on. Make sure it’s
seated in the groove all the way around, because we don’t want it to ride up and
then get pinched when we put the top half on. I think that’s got it. Now let’s
lower it in. We’ve got our tank back together, now
it’s time to take a look at all these hoses and determine if I’m gonna replace
them or reuse them. What I’m looking for is to make sure it’s still pliable and
doesn’t have any cracks on the ends. So the hoses for the most part look okay
but I’m not really excited about these clamps.
They are pretty rusty and I think they’re gonna be failing soon. So we’re
going to we’re gonna go ahead and replace those. Now these on the end, these
smaller ones? When they’re split or I had to cut them to get them off, what you can
do is just cut back and then reuse them. Probably get away with doing that once
or twice, but then after that gonna be a little too short and you’ll have to
replace them. But I think for the most part we can reuse most of these. So let’s
start replacing clamps, and then look at the photos and get everything put back
the way it was. If this whole setup is made up of like three different style
clamps. You’ve got some that are compression, you’ve got some that are
actually almost like spring tension, and there’s three different sizes of those.
So my advice is do them one at a time, that way you won’t get lost as to what
goes where. Alright definitely going to need this
special tool to crimp that. Love the way these work. So clean. Cool.
Neat how they send them out, they’re already compressed. You just pull that
retaining clip and on they go. Much better. Well it looks like we have
all this plumbing back together, so let’s go ahead and get this assembly mounted
back to the engine. These are our four bolts that we need to get to. And while
we’re here, this is a water inlet on the top of this cooler that we should go
ahead and take care of now because it’s almost impossible to get to once I get
this in place. That gets routed up through here. You plug in there. Here.
We’ve got our VST tank mounted up, we’ve got most of the plumbing done, most of
the electrical, but now we need to take a look at the throttle bodies. More
importantly, we need to look at the injectors. Because if they match the rest
of this engine, and they probably will, they’re gonna need to be looked at to
make sure the seals are good and then see if they are still flowing correctly
or not. So let’s grab those, head over to the teardown bench, and pull them apart.
For the most part the hoses still feel okay. Just a bit gritty. But what I’m
concerned with are the seals on the injectors themselves. So what I want to
do is go ahead and pull the fuel rails, get those injectors out, and then
reassess. I mean at the very least I think we need to replace the seals,
especially the ones going up to the fuel rail, and go from there. See if she’ll pull off now. There we go. Yeah,
they’re kind of kind of hard. They’re supposed to be really pliable. So we’ve
got the first three injectors pulled out. It doesn’t look too bad, but I do want to
get this cleaned up. But to clean the injectors, I’m going to need a special
tool to do so. What I’m going to use is actually made by Motion Pro, and what
this uses is just a nine volt trigger source associated with some carburetor
cleaner. It triggers the actual injector and then you can flush the carburetor
cleaner straight through the injector. So let me get the set up on one of them and
I’ll show you how it works. Just a little bit of silicon spray to make it easier
for that to go in there. Yeah, I think this will work. When you’re tightening
this down you don’t have to really put a lot of torque on it, you’re just
basically holding the injector still. That’s all that needs to be accomplished.
Plug this in and get my fish bowl over here so you can see what happens. The
trick when you’re doing this is not to hold the injector open for long. You just
want to do small pulses and you want to be to have this synchronized. So I think
these can be saved pretty easily. So what I’m gonna do is go ahead and clean this
last one, then pull the other three, clean all of those, then get these actual
throttle bodies cleaned up a little bit. Then I’m gonna order new o-rings and
seals for the injectors. When they come in, then we’ll put it all back together.
I’m not really excited about that crack right here, so I’m gonna go and replace
this one. The rest of them I’m gonna reuse. So next on the agenda, I’m gonna
carry both of the throttle bodies and the intakes over to the parts washer, see if
I can get them cleaned up a little bit. Get those parts ordered and then we put it
back together. Well, we have all our new seals and our one injector that we’re
actually going to replace. So with it all laid out on the table, let’s start
putting it back together. The first thing we’re gonna do is replace all of our
O-rings and our seals on our existing injectors and then we’re gonna get them
installed into the fuel rail and get it bolted back together. Nothing all that
technical about this, just remove the old O-rings and seals, pop on the new ones.
When you’re doing this, make sure there’s no corrosion or any type of debris in
between the injector and these little O-rings. Alright we’re about to get
our injectors installed into the fuel rail and the intakes. Want to use a
little bit of silicone spray to make it easier for those o-rings to guide in.
Takes a little bit of effort to get these in there. I think I’m going to use
a glove the next time around. One more spray on the other O-rings then off we go. Get our spacers in, just get it started.
Let’s use our bolts to go ahead and bring everything down. There we go. That’s
looking good. One bank down, one more to go.
There you have it. Let’s get the bench out of the way and get these bolted back
up to the engine. I had to go get the dowels out of the previous head and
transfer them over to here. Give me a second to get that done and we’ll get
everything mounted back up. So let’s get her closed up. There she goes. Everybody’s in there just hand tight.
Let’s go ahead and get these snugged down. Everything’s tightened down. Let’s go
ahead and make our electrical connections. Gets a little tight with the
injector connections. I believe that’s our fuel pump. Get our fuel line. Next, let’s get the
throttle linkage in place. Let’s get our fuel pump cable and it
goes to a little attachment point right here. Let’s go and get the intake over on
the opposite side. It’s basically the same game as what we just did. Be careful there, I actually let the
gasket slide over a little bit and get off that dowel, so don’t make that same
mistake. Alright this harness looks okay, I don’t think we need to do any
rewrapping on it. Go ahead and get our linkage over here
before it gets covered up. Go ahead and reconnect our fuel lines– our cross
connects rather. Slowly but surely she’s starting to fall
together. Alright, sometimes we end up having to take one step backwards to go
forwards. This is one of those cases. When I installed the flywheel, I forgot to put
this vent pipe and it actually mounts on these two bolts and sits in there
roughly like this and then goes to the intake plenum. So we’re gonna back up a
little bit, we’re gonna take off the flywheel, get this mounted up, and then
we’ll continue. Alright, with that bolt out of the way, we just need to put on a
puller and get it removed. No big deal. There she goes. Now we just need to remove
these two bolts, get that vent line in place, then put it back together.
Order of operations very important sometimes. Now let’s get it back on there. And keep
in mind the magnets are gonna try to pull it in, so don’t get your fingers
under it otherwise they’ll get pinched. There we go. Now we’re gonna use our
holder ,definitely gonna extend it out all the way because we have to take this
nut to a hundred and seventy four foot-pounds. Without throwing out my back. Woohoo, fun stuff. Next let’s go ahead and
get our intake silencer set up. These seals that they had, or well you
can look at them. There’s cracking, falling apart, and we’ve gone this far
we’re gonna go ahead and make sure it’s perfect. So let’s get these off and
getting the new ones put on. So no great trick to these. Just peel them off, we’ll
get the new ones put on, and get these installed. So now that we’ve got our
seals on, what we’re gonna do is put both of our silencers together, get these new
zip ties put on, and then we’ll put on both pair as an assembly. Makes it a lot
easier than trying to do it after the fact and get these boots to line up. Trying to do all of that when it’s
already mounted? You really can’t pull it off. So next let’s get a couple of zip
ties, put those around the boots, and then we put the whole assembly on. And to make
these easier to get in, we’re gonna spray them down with a little bit of silicone and just put it on as an assembly. So
basically you only have four bolts or nuts holding it in place. Two nuts up
here and then a couple of bolts here and here. Once you get one or two of this
started it’ll start to shimmy its way in. One up top and one down low. Get this little
crossover pipe in place. So we had two nuts up here then two bolts here and
here for the side and we just had the same thing to do on the other. Alright,
now let’s get our cover on and we will almost be through with this. This part
anyway. Alright campers, this pretty much wraps
up at this build. What’s going to happen next? Well I need to address the corrosion issue with the exhaust before I can get the powerhead re-mounted. Now
if you’d like to see that happen, why don’t you hit that subscribe button. That way
you’ll be notified when we release the video. Until then, we just want to say
thank you for shopping here with us at Boats.net and we will see you in the
next video. Y’all have a great day.

1 thought on “Yamaha F225 Outboard Rebuild Part 7: Fuel System Rebuild | Yamaha 225 Fuel Injector Cleaning

  1. John, this is a brilliant set of instructional video's – the best I've seen on YouTube. If this was a commercial job, can you give me an idea of what it would have cost the customer ?

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