Yamaha F225 Outboard Rebuild | Yamaha F225 Powerhead Rebuild | Boats.net

Hello, John Talley here with Boats.net, and
in this video we are going to do a complete build of a 2004 Yamaha F225. We took this engine all the way down to the
crankshaft, and then built it all the way back up. Now if you just want to watch individual sections,
we have those broken out in separate videos. But if you’re really interested, tune in and
you’ll see what it took to get the motor back to where it is right now. So if you’re ready, we’ll dive into this. Before you is a new block assembly: all the
pistons, and rings, gaskets, and bearings that were going to be required to put this
together. Now I’ve already gone through the process
to determine which bearing sizes should fit inside this engine, but I need to walk you
through that so you understand how to do that on your own. Now this is going to be a long day. Before I get this thing split in half, let’s
look at the special tools we’re going to need to get it done, so let’s go As always, a good
torque wrench. Second, you’re going to need to have a ring
compressor. Now you can use the standard universal type
like this, but the one I’m going to be using is one from Wiseco and it’s actually a ring
sleeve. You drop the piston in straight into the bores. Third you need to have a set of ring pliers,
pick those up just about anywhere. I know that was a daunting table, all those
parts. But now that you’ve got it together and then
we have our special tools, let’s go over there and build this engine. So we’ve got it broken in half, and I need
to walk you through where to get the information off of the both the block and the crank so
we can determine which bearing size is going to be required. And it’s kind of hard to see, but we were
looking for our four numbers that are going along the bottom web of the engine block itself. And this is going to be journal one, two,
three, and four. And the numbers that are actually right-side
up for me are going to be upside down for you looking from that angle. This is going to be 14, that’s a 10, 10, and
a 15. So write those down. Now next, we want to get two sets of numbers
off of our crankshaft. We’re going to get the main journals, which
the same for the correspond to this, but while we’re there we want to go ahead and get the
actual connector rod locations. There’ll be six numbers for those, so look
on the end of the crank. The four numbers up top are for the journals,
so that’s going to be 73, 75, 75, and then 73. And while we’re down here, let’s go ahead
and get our connector rod. So that’s going to be 87, 86, 87, 88, 87,
and 90. Now I guarantee you, your numbers going to
be a little bit different from mine, but that’s okay because each block, each crankshaft,
each connector rod, there’s just a little bit of variance and we go through this process
to get it as accurately sized as possible. So now that we’ve got our numbers, let’s go
look in the chart that we’re going to show you and that’ll determine which bearing needs
to go in which location. Now the chart we’re showing you now is where
you input your numbers. The top’s going to be your cylinder block
number, and on the other axis is going to be your crankshaft journal mark. When you input those two numbers, they’re
going to intersect out in the chart and that is going to tell you what size bearing that
we’re gonna need. So let’s do journal number one. First number: 73. And on the block side, 14. We follow 73 across, we bring 14 down, that
is going to be a bearing three. You go through the same process for journal
two, three, and four. Each one of them is going to get you a number
inside of this chart which is going to correspond to a certain size bearing. Keep in mind when you get to journal three
that is different than journal one, two, and four because that is your thrust bearing. So make sure you take that into account when
you’re making your order. Now doing the same procedures for journals
two, three, and four, mine’s going to be three, two, two, three. Now that I’ve shown you how to get the bearing
size, let me go grab those, get them put in, we’ll lay in our crankshaft, a little bit
of plasti-gauge, get this thing bolted down, and check to see if we’re right. And there’s number four. All right, the bearings are in place. Now I just want to grab the thrust washers. I’m gonna put a little bit of grease toward
the inside, to where there kind of stick to the casing itself. Let’s lay in our crank. Carefully. Resist the temptation to roll this because
there’s no assembly lube, there’s no oil, there’s nothing, and we don’t want to mar
the surfaces. So, leave it where it is. There. Now we’ll step over to the other table, get
those bearings in place, then we can pop her in. That should do it. And the last. Now let’s clean those surfaces off and we’re
gonna lay in four strips of plasti-gage. And we’re using the green and that’ll get
us in the correct range. It’s like she’s sitting down, let’s get some
torque on there. And when you’re putting these in, make sure
you oil the threads on each one. And no, I’m not using this to torque it down,
I’m just using this to run it down so we’re not here forever. Just run it till it bottoms out, then we’ll
break out the torque wrench. One small mistake, when I flip the engine
around from where we first started, made mistake where these two bolts go. Otherwise your windage tray will not go in
there correctly. So let me swap those around then we’ll get
going. So the tightening sequence is as follows:
bolts one through eight, your first is going to be 18 foot pounds, and your second is going
to be plus 90 degrees. For 9 through 16, we’re gonna take that 29
foot-pounds and then add an additional 90 degrees. Now for the perimeter bolts, all the M8 bolts,
we’re gonna take it to 10 foot pounds and then the second is going to be 20 foot pounds. 18 foot pounds, let’s get going. Let’s find number 1. Now we’re gonna ramp it up to 29 foot-pounds,
so we left off at what, number eight? So we’re going to number nine. Now let’s drop it down to 10 foot-pounds and
hit all the bolts on the perimeter. Now we’re going to go through the same sequence
on these and add 90 degrees to both these outside bolts, the inside bolts, and then
we’ll take the outside perimeter bolts to 20 foot pounds. So my particular torque wrench actually can
do degrees. If not, either get one of these or get a degree
wheel to where you can get where ninety degrees is as accurately as you can. There we go. Now let’s change our units back to foot-pounds,
bring it up to 20, and then finish out. Alright, that’s it. Reverse order. Alright, to break these loose I’m gonna use
a wrench to at least get it started. So we left off on 17, so over to 16. Now let’s get them out. They’re already loosened so sequence really
doesn’t matter at this point. Alright there’s a
couple of pry points on either side. We want to lift up on this very carefully
as to not to get anything to rotate to get it or break loose. There’s no sealant on it so this shouldn’t
be any more than just getting it off the dowels. What we’re looking for is anywhere from .025
to .050 and on our scale, there’s your point two five and then yours there’s your point
zero five one. So anywhere in between that one being the
smallest, and that one being the largest. This is a tick on the tight side, but that’s
okay because it’ll actually wear in and put us exactly where we need to be. What we’re gonna do next, pull out the crank,
then I’m gonna flip over the bottom half the crankcase itself and get all the plasti-gage
cleaned off. At that point, we’re gonna break out our assembly
lube and actually put this crankshaft together. So let’s get going. Alright we’re getting ready to lay the crankshaft
in. Before I do that, I want to put a little bit
of oil around the main seal here. Then I’m going to put it on the end of the
crankshaft and then I’m going to bring it over and lay it in place. Let’s go ahead and get some assembly lube
on our bearings. I like to put it on both sides actually. That’s going to be down in here and then we’ll
put some on the the journals once we lay the crank in. Put a tick on our thrust bearing. Now we’ve got our main seal on, and it’s got
oil on it. Let’s lay in the crank for the last time. Make sure you don’t knock off the thrust bearings
as you’re guiding it in. That should do. Now with that in place, let’s go ahead and
lay down our sealant. It does not take a lot, just a thin layer. Thin continuous layer. Make sure you put a little bit here on the
edge on either side of the seal, and just on this side this one protrusion with the
bearing is kicked into the block– but just a dot right there. Not into the where the oil is going to be,
but just for that where that cutout is on this side. Actually I made one small mistake on the other
side: it should cut in between those two right here. Trick is not to put too much because we don’t
want to have a bunch of a squirting inside and then trying to mix with our oil. Not what we’re after. Let’s go ahead and get our O-rings in place. Now carry the lube over to the back half,
go ahead and put it on the bearings, and then we’re gonna set it down. Well that looks good to me, let’s get some
bolts back in place. Once again, don’t forget to oil the threads. This is going to be the exact same procedure
when we torqued it down last time. 18 foot-pounds, 1 through 8, coming up. Now through 16, going up to 29 foot pounds. Now the perimeter ones we’re going to drop
down to 10 foot pounds. Now 1 through 8, actually 1 through 16 is
going to be plus 90 degrees. Now if we’ll switch over to foot-pounds again
and go to 20 with the perimeter. There it is. Before we move it over to the engine stand,
what we’re gonna do is go ahead and put the oil pump on. That way I don’t have to worry about trying
to do that when we’re actually lifting the entire unit off when it’s completely finished
just getting this one piece on. It won’t interfere with the engine stand that
I’m using so we’re gonna go and pop it all now. What we have are the two o-rings seal here
and then an output seal. Make sure you grease all of these accordingly. And then we’re just going to bolt it back
up. Don’t forget that guy. The trick here is to line up that with the
end of the crankshaft and the housing at the same time. You may have to move it a few times before
everybody wants to play nice. There we go. Get our four bolts in there, then we’ll get
the stand adapter mounted to it, then get it over to the stand. Then, we’ll be able to start working on the
pistons and connector rods. We’re going to put seven foot-pounds on those. I guess when you can make it exact. There we go. Now we can turn our attention to the pistons,
rings, and connector rods. To give you an overview of what’s going to
happen, what I’m going to do is go ahead and mount the piston to the connector rod. At that point I’m going to explain how we
chose the correct bearing sizes. We’re actually going to install it into the
block with plasti-gage to take a measurement to make sure it’s within range. And when you’re doing this, do not use your
new connector rod bolts. We want to reuse the ones that came out because
they’re one-time usage. Let’s start by getting our ring out. Long as it didn’t fly on the engine, I think
we’re okay. Now take note of which way the connector rod
is oriented with the piston. The piston side is up, and you have markings
on the inner part of the web on it. Want to make sure that the new piston gets
installed the same way. Push that to the side. Let’s go ahead and put in 1/2 of our circlips. We want to make sure that it is either facing
straight down or straight up. You do not want the end of it to end up in
that little cutout to the side. Just rotate it back a little bit, start working
it in. What I’m doing is using the screwdriver just
to push barely on its edge as I’m pushing in with my other thumb to get it to glide
down in there. There she goes. As long as you only score up the outside,
we’re good. What you don’t want to do is score up the
inside where the wrist pins going to ride. Before we put in the wrist pin, let’s go ahead
and put a little assembly lube inside the connector rod and inside the piston. Alright, we’ve got that in the up orientation. There she goes. Now we just need to get the other circlip
in on the other side. Piece of cake. Now it’s important now that you wrote down
those six numbers that were actually marked on the inside of the the crankshaft because
this is where they come into play. Now those numbers will tell you which size
bearing or which color bearing that you should be using, and it’s only determined by the
crank. In most cases usually it’s a combination of
the crank versus connector rod, but with Yamaha, it’s only with the crank size. So now those numbers you actually look into
this table and it’s going to tell you which color. In my case, they all fall into the green category,
so all my bearings are going to be the green ones. So what we’re gonna do now is take our new
bearings, put a little bit of plasti-gage on them, then we’re gonna install the piston
and the connecting rod into the block without the rings where we can take the measurement. Now when you’re putting in the bearings, make
sure that these two little indentions are on the same side. Alright, that’s in place, let’s step over
to the block and get this installed. I am going to take a little bit of oil and
just put it on the skirts so I don’t scratch up anything in there. Facing up, and let’s bring our journal down
to the bottom of the stroke. Alright now when you’re doing this, make sure
that you’re not lining it up with the oil galley way. I’ve got a smooth surface so I’m good to go. Now we just need to get it torqued down and
this is actually a 3-step process. The first time, we take it to 17 foot pounds,
and then we put it to 35 foot pounds, and the last is to take it an additional 90 degrees. So we’re gonna start at 17. Now the real trick here is to not let the
crankshaft turn because if it rotates, then that’s going to smear the plasti-gage and
we’re not going to have a good reading. So be careful here. And then up to 35. And now 90 degrees. Let it calibrate figure out where it is. We’re at 90, let’s go. There it is. Now let’s take it back out and see what it
measured out at. Let’s see what we ended up with. So we’re looking for in between .035 and .071,
and we’re right in there. So we are good to go. So now let’s check our ring gap. We’re going to start with the top ring, it
is the one with an R mark on it– and that’s going to be facing up on the piston. And we’re going to install it into the block
about 20 millimeters in. And we’re looking for a range in between .15
and .3 millimeters. So we’re gonna place it in there, we’re gonna
square it up using the piston pushing it in from the top, and then take our measurement. So let’s pop her in carefully and then we’re
gonna square it up with the piston. Should do. 0.127, let’s see if she’ll go, I’m betting
it will. Yep. So we’re already in the ballpark, so I’m good
with that. That one does not need to be adjusted. Next, let’s look at our second ring and we’re
looking for clearance on it, it’s a good bit larger. It’s in between .15 and .35 millimeters. So let’s take it up to 0.305– yep not a problem. So they’re both in the ballpark. Last we’ll check our oil rings and then we
can move on. We’ll pop the old rings in there, but I can
go ahead and tell you they’re going to be fine. That’s plenty a gap and I’m actually having
to hold it into the the cylinder walls, so we’re good. So let’s head back over to the table, get
the rings mounted to the piston, and then we’ll talk about the orientation of where
they need to end up. So instead of running back and forth to the
book, I usually just write onto the piston the orientation everything needs to go in
and just mark it. Your top ring here, and you’re also going
to end up with your oil ring in that location. Then second ring goes 180 degrees away, about
45 degrees off-axis. Second ring goes there. Then you’re gonna have your oil retaining
rings, the oil top one is here and then 180 out is where your oil bottom is going to go. So we’re gonna start with the oil, ring the
first one, want to have your edges facing up. And when you’re putting these in, you want
to make sure that they butt up to each other like this. Because on occasion they’ll try to leapfrog
over one side or the other and that won’t work out very well. So you just want to make sure that they’re
butted together. So our oil ring is going to end up over here. Then we’re gonna take our oil bottom next,
and that’s going to end up on this side. And with these smaller– with these really
thin rings you can actually spiral these on. They do not want to use the spiraling technique
with your second ring or the top ring. But for this, it’s okay. Alright let’s verify that the oil, they’re
still butted up to each other and they are right there. Now we can take our oil top and we want it
to end up over here. There. Next let’s do our second ring, and that is
the one that has the R in on it. Now before we install that, just take a little
bit of oil on your fingertips and just wipe it around the surface of the ring. Now we only want to open it up just enough
for it to clear the piston. Hop in there. Next we’ll get on our top, and it’s going
to end up over here. Same process with the oil. Make sure the R is facing up. There it is. Now one thing we need to go back and do is
take out our old connector rod bolts and then install the new ones and we also need to clean
up with a plastic- gage is on our bearing as well as on the crankshaft journal. Just take a little bit of assembly lube. Go ahead and put it on the bearing surfaces. I want to coat down the cylinder walls. I had to clean them earlier. Just want to take a little bit of oil on my
fingertips and just spread it around the inside of the cylinder. So just shoot a little bit all in here and
then we’ll spread it around. There’s a couple of different ways you can
get the rings to compress down on the piston to get them in on the block. There’s the tried-and-true compressor, it’s
just an adjustable one. But the one I prefer to use is actually a
sleeve ring compressor. You drop it in from the top, made it up to
the block and just guide it in. So I’m gonna go with the sleeve type for this
one. Let’s get our orientation. It’s gonna be up and these are actually tapered. So we want to start it like this. Make sure your rings guide in. And isn’t that easy? you know get things lined
up down here. Keep coming. Yeah I think she’s bottomed out now. Yep. What I’m doing here is just making sure I’ve
got the end cap going in correctly because we’ve got a mark there and one there. Now, so let’s get it torqued back down for
the final time. 17 foot-pounds coming up. Then up to 35, and now 90 degrees. Alright guys, all we need to do now is go
through that exact same process five more times, so let me get that knocked out and
then we can finish up this part. Alright guys, that was a lot of fun and you
got to enjoy it through time-lapse where I actually had to do the work. Now there’s just a few more things to get
it buttoned up. We want to go ahead and get the baffle plate
or windage tray in place, and I’ll loosely call this the oil pan if it was a standard
engine you know sitting upright in a car that’s what it would be doing. Then we’ve got a couple of water lines that
need to go in, and then there’s an inspection plate that needs to go on this side, and then
we will finish it out by putting on the the drive gear for the cam timing. So let’s start off with the windage tray and
these do need to have a little bit of Loctite on them and then we’re going to torque them–
they call out eight point seven foot-pounds– we’ll take it to nine and I think everything
will be fine. So, let’s start getting this thing wrapped
up. Next let’s get on our new gasket for our crankcase
cover. There is a sequence to this and the good part
about this is they actually have them numbered going around in the sequence. But it’s actually a two-stage. The first time around you take it to 10 foot
pounds, the second time around take it to 20. So we’ve got everything to set in place, now
it’s time to break out the torque wrench. We’re going to follow the sequence, take it
to ten foot-pounds, come back do the same sequence again at 20 foot-pounds. Alright let’s take it up to 20. Next let’s get on our oil filter housing. We’ll take these to eight. Let’s go and get our oil filler neck reinstalled. Use the same torque. Now if you were paying attention when I took
apart the original block, you will remember that these were an absolute mess. I’m not going to go through this much pain
and put really dilapidated parts back on it, so this one’s getting new hoses, new housings
,new thermostats. Just about all of your six millimeter thread
bolts, they get the same torque. Kinda odd that Yamaha puts a zip tie to hold
a hose on, but their design not mine. Just need to replicate this over on the other
side. Next let’s get on the the cooling passage–
cooling water passage– and make sure you put on the gasket for this black section is
facing into the block. See how that looks different? You want the non black surface to be against
this outer cover and then this black adhesive side going into the block. Look at that, they even give you the torque:
11.8 Newton meters or 8.7 foot-pounds. Let’s run them down and then we’ll torque
them. Alright, number one. Alright, let’s go ahead and get our drive
gear for the timing belt. And these guys will not take a whole lot of
torque. Give us seven Newton meters or five foot pounds,
so be careful with them. Well, we’ve got the bottom end knocked out. Let’s take a look at what we’re gonna need
to complete the head installation. The machine shop has resurfaced the heads
and here’s what we found after we got them cleaned up: these are too far gone. There is no way we can take them down any
further to try to get rid of all the corrosion damage that’s done around the water jackets
area and then working its way back into the combustion chamber. So what do you do? Well, you don’t just buy heads and then transfer
all your old stuff over. It is not financially prudent to do so. So what do you do? Well Yamaha offers complete head assemblies,
and when I say complete I mean they are ready to bolt on. You get the entire head assembly ready to
bolt on along with all the required gaskets and seals and that’s the direction we are
going to head. These? They’re going to get thrown in the trash can
or taken to the recycler, because that’s all they are worth is just scrap at this point. Now, as far as the special tools, there’s
really none called for. Only thing we’re gonna need is a good torque
wrench which can also do angles as well. Well now that you know what I’m going to use
for parts, let me go grab my toolbox and we’ll get this thing put back together. Now, I’ve got everything laid out on the table
in the right orientation where it’s going to make a smooth transition over to the engine
block itself. What we have to do first is remove the tensioner
and then the cams, and when I do that I’m going to lay them here in the correct orientation,
in the correct order. At that point, we can bring the head over,
get it torque down and then reinstall the camshafts and the chain and the tensioner. Pretty simple, huh? Now that tensioners actually already have
a little holder that’s keeping the tension off so they’re easier to remove. Just this little pin right here. And when you’re removing the camshaft caps,
you actually want to do it in particular order. Going one through four, you want one, two,
three, and then you end up with number four. Once we get those removed, we’ll transfer
it to the towel and then it’ll make the last jump over to the head. All we need to do next is just move the camshafts
over to here temporarily until we get them bolted back in. And you’ll notice there’s two links that are
actually in gold. Those are the timing marks showing the relationship
in between the intake and exhaust cams, because there’s also a mark on the cam gear itself. So for some reason that got moved. You just need to make sure that those links
end up in the same orientation that they are right now. The sequence on this one is one, two, three,
four, and back to five, but before we do that let’s go ahead and get our tensioner out of
the way. Now let’s go we’ve got everything laid out, we’ve got our
gaskets, new seals. They call this a water shut grommet. Let’s start laying in the different pieces,
bring over the head, then get it torqued. We’ll go ahead and put this little grommet
in first and they actually go down here just like that. So what we’re going to do the other one since
we’re thinking about it. I would not want to leave this out. Now hopefully you kept up with your dowels
because even with the new heads they don’t send out new dowels. So we pull those out of the old one, get those
in place, and give them a light tap to make sure their bottomed out. Go ahead and do the opposite side as well. Next we need to verify that we’ve got our
crank in the correct position and we do. Our arrows are lined up over here. Now let’s get some contact cleaner and do
one last wipe of our surface area here because we want that to be completely clean so it
gets a good seal. Lay our gasket in. Now we can bring the head over. These edges are extremely sharp so make sure
you’ve got a good hold on it, otherwise it will fillet your finger open. Now each one of these bolts put a little bit
of oil just on the tip before you pop them in. I’m not doing these in sequence at the moment–
just getting them bottomed out. There will be a tightening sequence and it’s
actually in three stages. There’s a certain order you need to do that
to and I will show you that in a few minutes. Alright, the sequence I’ve already marked
on the head, so it goes one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. And you’re actually going to do this in three
stages. The first time around we’re gonna take it
to 14 foot pounds. The second time around, we’ll take it to 27
foot pounds. And the last time, we’ll change the settings
on our torque wrench and we’ll take each one an additional 90 degrees. Now we got three bolts on the end, and it’s
a two-stage tighten. We’re gonna take it to ten foot pounds the
first time, and then 20 the second time around. Next I want to put a little assembly lube
on each one of the valve tappets, or the buckets depending on what you want to call it. And then on the cam surfaces as well. So let’s go ahead and bring over our cams. Verifying that our gold links are still where
they’re supposed to be and they are, so we’re looking good. Now let’s start bringing over our caps. Makes it so much easier when you keep everything
lined up on the table. Let’s put a little bit of oil inside this
seal. Lifts up. So here’s our sequence: it’s going to be one,
two, three, and then finish here at four. Now we’re gonna do this in two steps. The first time around it’s going to be 5.8
foot-pounds, the second time around it’s going to be twelve foot pounds. Alright, next let’s get our tension are in
place. Now we just need to take those two to 8.7
foot pounds. There she is. Last but not least, let’s go ahead and pull
this retaining pin and we’re good to go. So, what we’re going to do next is just rotate
it over a little bit and we’ve got the exact same procedure we need to do for the other
bank. So let’s keep going. Make sure our surface is clean, lay down our
gasket, put this head in place. Do it again. Like I said, same procedures we just did. And I have the sequence marked. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight,
and then we finish out nine, ten, eleven on those M8 bolts on the very end of the engine. And you’re actually going to do this in three
stages. The first time around we’re gonna take it
to 14 foot pounds. The second time around we will take it to
27 foot pounds. And the last time we’ll change the settings
on our torque wrench and we’ll take each one an additional 90 degrees. 10 first time around, then 20. Same game as before: first round going to
be 5.8 foot-pounds, second time around going to be 12. And we’re going to go 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Now let’s get our chain tensioner in place. What’s that? Yeah, she actually slides in there like that. Take those to 8.7. Two, four, seven. Now, let’s pull out that retaining pin. She’s good to go. What we’re gonna do next is wipe this area
down, grab our covers, make sure they’re clean, and then get it closed up. We’ve got our valve cover ready to go, we
do need to put a little bit of Yamabond on these points right here: one, two, three,
four. Two, three, four. Now we can lay it in place, hopefully everybody
stays in there. Now Yamaha actually wants you to use a little
bit of blue Loctite on each one of these bolts. One side down, the other one to go. it’s finally starting to come together. Let’s look at all the electrical equipment
we’re gonna need to get reinstalled on this engine. Well as you can tell from the table, we’re
reinstalling most of the equipment that came off the motor to begin with, except for this. We’re gonna put on a new timing belt. Now as far as the special tools, there will
not be any required but I will call out the standard tools that I’m using as I go along
to make it easier for your project to go forward. Well now that we’ve looked at our pile of
harness and one timing belt, let’s step over and start working on this thing. So we’re going to start this process by actually
going backwards for a moment. The first step is we need to go ahead and
get our camshaft gears mounted, and to do that we need to hold the camshafts still because
they take right at 49 foot-pounds of torque– and of course we can’t do that with the engine
just sitting like it is and I don’t want to put that kind of stress on the timing belt
when I put it on. So what we’re going to do is remove these
covers. At that point, you’re gonna see on the camshaft
there’s an actual area to where you can put a wrench to hold it still. Let me get these popped off real quick and
then we’ll get those timing gears put on. Let’s start by tapping in our dowel. Since we’re at it we’ll go ahead and get both
of them. So you actually have a 23 millimeter going
down to your camshaft, and then the top bolt is a 13 millimeter and we’re going to take
this to 43 foot-pounds. Yamaha actually wants you to replace these
gaskets every time you pull it off. I think that’s a little bit excessive, they’re
brand new. I’m just gonna add one little small dab of
Yamabond back in these four corners and pop it right back on there. I’m going to use this to run it down but this
is not what I’m gonna use to set the torque. I just want to get them in there easily. Then we’ll get them torqued. Now what they want you to do here is go around
and tighten them to five-point-eight and then go back around because there’s so much gasket
material or rubber material to compress down it won’t be even the first time around. Second time around will even everything up. Now one more time. Let’s bring it around, do the same thing to
this one. Alright, 43 coming up. One more time. Next let’s go ahead and get our throttle linkages
in place. Alright this one is in the correct position. That little mark right here is lined up at
this point. The one here we need to rotate clockwise to
where it’s in position. And I’m just a little bit off on the crank,
I mean just a hair. So we’re gonna start by temporarily putting
on the flywheel and see if we can just bump that over. That’s it. Now let’s bring over this bank. That’s it. Now let’s get our belt on. Give it an amount of tension, it’ll start
to compress. Just takes a little while. Don’t expect it just to fly right over. There we go. Now we’re getting ready to put on the mount
for our stator, and if you’re putting on a new block like I am, you need to transfer
your dowels over. Otherwise they’re not going to play well together. Next let’s get on the stator. And I prefer to use a little bit of Loctite
on these bolts but not the red we’re just gonna go with the blue. Now let’s get in our Woodruff key and put
on our flywheel. So we’re getting ready to torque this to a
hundred seventy four foot pounds, and you want to put a little bit of oil on your threads. I’m going to be using a special tool that’s
actually going to hold it here and here with a long handle. If you don’t have one of these, and we can
certainly sell you one, but if I were you I would probably get me a couple of flat pieces
of– I don’t know, quarter-inch steel maybe a half inch wide– weld it together in a Y
and then put in two bolts to go into that location to hold it still. ‘Cause you’re going to need to get out to
here because 174? That’s a lot. Now with that done, just to make sure that
we’re correct on our timing, let’s go ahead and spin the engine around once, make sure
everything clears. Now a spark plug– the spark plugs are actually
already mounted so it’ll have a fair amount of pressure we have to overcome, but let’s
take it around once. Get my marks exactly where they were before. Now, before we go any further, let’s go ahead
and put our pointer back on and get it pointed to top dead center. Next let’s bring in our arm for the throttle
plates. Don’t tighten these bottom ones down until
we get this upper section because that’s the critical point because we don’t want it to
bind. So just do these hand tight where we can still
shift it around. Plus this has a little arrow on the outside. Make sure, of course it’s going to be pointing
up, but you want it on the outside– not hidden on the inside. Now let’s get these tightened down. And since we’re here now let’s get in this
ground strap that goes from one head to the other. Next let’s go ahead and get our temperature
sensors in place, and then we’re gonna lay over the harness, start getting it bolted
down, and hook it up. I’m not sure why Yamaha redesigned these because
they actually mount in the same way. Alright, with those in place, let’s go ahead
and get our voltage regulator rectifier. So it actually resides behind the harness
and its ground goes here, and then the harness ground actually has two points here and here. It’s got our ground in. So with that in place, let’s go ahead and
bring it over our main harness and then start laying it in. We’ll start by just getting in these top bolts
and leave them loose, and then we’ll go down, put in the rest, and then install the ones
up top for the trough. When you’re doing this, make sure you’ve got
these wires pulled through and just lay it into place here. Like that. So that’s bolts down here at the bottom, here,
here, here, here and then we’ll have three more up there at the top. The bolts that hold this section have an extra
washer right there and they’re this length. The ones up top are just a little bit longer
with a single washer. Let’s do our two grounds that come off the
main harness. One of them goes right here and the second
one goes through here right to this point. Next, there’s a bracket lays in like this. Those are gonna go there. I guess we can go ahead and connect these. Go ahead and zip-tie those in back up. There we go. A couple little channels that they actually
seat into. Alright, at this point let’s go and get the
starter up there and we want to hold this a little bit in as we bring it in because
we want it to route just behind it. I missed a ground. This one right here needs to go behind that. So let’s back this off for a second and there
should be enough leeway for me to get it in there. Now let’s get that back in place. Need to bring that wire off of the starter
down to this point. Just plug and play right here, two bullet
connectors. Now let’s go ahead and get the coil packs
bolted back down. Alright we’ve got a ground wire up in place,
don’t forget about it. Now let’s drop in our coil triggers. And since we’re here. I’m just checking over my coil wires making
sure they’re not cracked anywhere on the boots. I still look okay. When you’re pushing these on, you can feel
them I’d actually clip in, then you know you’ve pushed it far enough. Push them straight so they’ll I actually engage
like that. What we’re doing here is just re-taping some
of the wires where oil and gas has gotten in there and caused it to release. When you’re doing this make sure you use some
good tape to do it. The 3M brand it’s probably the best out there
and it’ll hold on the longest. Tough stuff. We are really starting to get close on this
project. Let’s take a dive into the fuel system and
what it’s going to take to clean it up and get it put back together. This machine has been setting up for a long
time obviously if you’ve been watching any of these videos, and feel confident that the
inside of this VST tank is going to be a mess. But we haven’t opened it up yet, so I have
no idea what parts are going to be required. I can tell you it’s only gonna take basic
tools to get this done, so speaking of tools let me go up in my toolbox and then we can
dive into this project. So let’s get these throttle bodies out of
the way. I’ll open up that VST tank. I cannot wait to see what’s going on inside
of it. If you don’t own one of these, I suggest you
get one because it’s the only tool I know of that can actually have a chance of pulling
these out. Little shock to the system and they’ll come
right out most of the time. I am pleasantly surprised so far, it’s not
as bad as I was expecting. So it’s not nearly as bad as I thought it
was going to be in there. What we’re gonna do is get some contact cleaner—carburetor
cleaner– and then start cleaning it out, inspecting all the o-rings, look at the hoses,
see if any of them are cracked or need to be replaced, and then we can put it back together
and actually get it on the machine and maybe test it. So, let’s get started. So as I said, everything’s looking pretty
good in here so far, but looks can be deceiving. We’re gonna pull down each component and see
if we can do a bench test. I just want to put a little bit of power to
it see if the motor actually turns which I kind of expect it to. Now when you’re doing this, we are messing
with something that was just immersed in gasoline so the slightest little spark has the potential
to start a fire so you need to be very aware of that when you’re making connections if
you choose to do a bench test of the individual pumps. Just want to make make that clear. Things can go south in a big hurry. I want to take a quick peek at our high-pressure
pump. For the most part it’s empty of fuel. It’ll be pulling in from the side and pushing
it out that way, so we want to make sure that’s actually facing away from us. And it’s actually marked up top as to which
one’s positive and negative. Let’s see what we’ve got. Yep, it appears that this pump is still functional,
so we’re gonna try to use it. What we are going to do is replace the pickup
which has a filter built into it as well as the input which goes into this plate, also
has like a rubber collar. But over time that we rubber will break down
and almost turn it into a jelly and then stop up the whole system. So we’re in here, now it’s the best time to
go and replace all these different seals, filters, as well as O-rings. So let’s keep going. Let’s dump it out, let’s see if there’s anything
just old gas– kind of had a yellow tinge to it. But honestly that’s really as clean as you
get. The hoses still feel ok, I don’t see any splitting
on them. They are getting a little bit stiff and not
super wild about the the clamps showing some rust because that’s not going to improve over
time. I think what we’re gonna do here is go ahead
and pull the hoses off and I am gonna end up replacing those. Because when it comes to your fuel system,
a small leak starts a fire and I don’t want to be that guy. When you’re dealing with older hoses like
this, if you just grab it from the side and just squeeze it, twist it a little bit just
to get it broken loose. That makes it easier to get it pulled off. Okay let’s go ahead and test our low pressure
pump with it still attached to the bracket so it doesn’t try to jump on us. Alright, color coded, red and black, making
it easy for me. Let’s see where she’s got. It isn’t sounding super healthy. Tell you what, just for fun we’re gonna open
up a new one and take a listen to it because uh that doesn’t sound right to me. Let’s see what a new one sounds like. So yes, they sound a whole lot different. So guess which one’s gonna go on the engine? It’s gonna be this one. If yours sounded like that other one, you
probably need to order one of these as well. Now we’re definitely going to go ahead and
replace the low pressure or the lift pump, and then we’ll go ahead and reinstall our
existing high pressure pump along with the new filter and the new seals. We’re just transferring over these little
rubber dampeners. They can clamp it back down. Pop it back in here so we’re not chasing it
around the table. I think this one’s been in here since day
one. Look, it was broken right here. So that was a leak waiting to happen. Got a little bit of corrosion on the inside
of this little ridge or channel. So let’s get it scraped out and then I’m gonna
spray out the whole thing, because everything I’m scraping out, some of us going into the
tank and it doesn’t need to be there. Much better. Our pump has a filter on the bottom of it,
which is this. And then up top, it has a rubber grommet that
goes into the housing. It is the top of the VST tank. So we’re going to replace both of those. Yeah, huge difference. This is like a brick compared to the new one. And we need to spray that out a little bit. Yeah it’s like a brick compared to the new
one. Uh-uh. Done, done, done. It’s like it may look alright from the outside,
but once you actually pull it apart and get to actually feel it, you can tell that it
was time to do this. Now if you know this you’re gonna replace
a hose and it just will not release? Take a knife and just slip it down the side
where it actually intersects on the brass. Don’t push so hard that you actually scar
the the brass, but now it should release. Yeah that hose that had it. That needle– little needle valve which is
attached to this float– it looks to be in good shape but I still want to pop it out
and look at the actual tip of it and make sure it’s not pitted anywhere. So let’s do that. That
looks good, stainless. It’s kind of cool that Yamaha actually has
this needle seat where you can remove it if it was damaged, but it actually looks good. And our needle and this one has a rubber end. What you want to feel for is to make sure
it’s not split so you hold it like this and just kind of push the tip at 90 degrees to
make sure it doesn’t open up anywhere. This one looks good to go. So slide it back in this channel. Make sure you put your pin back in the same
direction it came out, and in the same orientation. I think it was about right there. You can’t tap this very hard and run the risk
of snapping this edge. This has a fair amount of scale and gunk down
inside. So what we’re gonna do, we’re gonna go ahead
and pull that apart, and if I keep messing around I’m going to end up bending that tab
and then that float’s not going to be where it’s supposed to be. So let’s take that back off. Now we want see if we balance it on this little
oil pan. And we’re going to fill that little cavity
with some carburetor cleaner/dip. Let it sit, do its job. That should break it free. Let that sit for a while then we’ll come back
see if we get it cleaned up. And welcome back. It’s actually been sitting for a day or so,
and it seems that the carb dip has done its job and gotten this reasonably cleaned up. So now I think we can actually just spray
it down with some contact cleaner and get it put back together. Much better. Still not perfect, but much better. All I’m doing now is just cleaning up the
surface where this o-ring is going to go on this top half. Just had a little bit of a corrosion from
the previous one. I’m going to get that all scraped off, make
sure it’s smooth. That way that way it will seal up properly. While I was ordering parts, I did decide to
go ahead and replace the float needle and its seat since it is replaceable on this. I mean the one I took took off looked good,
but it’s cheap insurance. We’re going this far on the engine, and why
not go ahead and do it. That way we’re a hundred percent sure that
this is not going to leak and when we put it back together. Our new pieces, we’ll lay that out to the
side for a moment, get the seat in. And then just has this little bracket it has
to go back and hold it in place. Put in this new, I guess you call it a grommet. Make sure it’s all the way down flush. And our needle in place. Now we can get our pin back in. Looks like it. Let’s
bring it in to seat it. That should do. Now we can plug in our pump, which we’re gonna
reuse the original one. Get that output pressed in. Looks like it. Alright, so it’s good to go. Let’s go ahead and get our new o-ring on. Make sure it’s seated in the groove all the
way around, because we don’t want it to ride up and then get pinched when we put the top
half on. I think that’s got it. Now let’s lower it in. We’ve got our tank back together, now it’s
time to take a look at all these hoses and determine if I’m gonna replace them or reuse
them. What I’m looking for is to make sure it’s
still pliable and doesn’t have any cracks on the ends. So the hoses for the most part look okay but
I’m not really excited about these clamps. They are pretty rusty and I think they’re
gonna be failing soon. So we’re going to we’re gonna go ahead and
replace those. Now these on the end, these smaller ones? When they’re split or I had to cut them to
get them off, what you can do is just cut back and then reuse them. Probably get away with doing that once or
twice, but then after that gonna be a little too short and you’ll have to replace them. But I think for the most part we can reuse
most of these. So let’s start replacing clamps, and then
look at the photos and get everything put back the way it was. If this whole setup is made up of like three
different style clamps. You’ve got some that are compression, you’ve
got some that are actually almost like spring tension, and there’s three different sizes
of those. So my advice is do them one at a time, that
way you won’t get lost as to what goes where. Alright definitely going to need this special
tool to crimp that. Love the way these work. So clean. Cool. Neat how they send them out, they’re already
compressed. You just pull that retaining clip and on they
go. Much better. Well it looks like we have all this plumbing
back together, so let’s go ahead and get this assembly mounted back to the engine. These are our four bolts that we need to get
to. And while we’re here, this is a water inlet
on the top of this cooler that we should go ahead and take care of now because it’s almost
impossible to get to once I get this in place. That gets routed up through here. You plug in there. Here. We’ve got our VST tank mounted up, we’ve got
most of the plumbing done, most of the electrical, but now we need to take a look at the throttle
bodies. More importantly, we need to look at the injectors. Because if they match the rest of this engine,
and they probably will, they’re gonna need to be looked at to make sure the seals are
good and then see if they are still flowing correctly or not. So let’s grab those, head over to the teardown
bench, and pull them apart. For the most part the hoses still feel okay. Just a bit gritty. But what I’m concerned with are the seals
on the injectors themselves. So what I want to do is go ahead and pull
the fuel rails, get those injectors out, and then reassess. I mean at the very least I think we need to
replace the seals, especially the ones going up to the fuel rail, and go from there. See if she’ll pull off now. There we go. Yeah, they’re kind of kind of hard. They’re supposed to be really pliable. So we’ve got the first three injectors pulled
out. It doesn’t look too bad, but I do want to
get this cleaned up. But to clean the injectors, I’m going to need
a special tool to do so. What I’m going to use is actually made by
Motion Pro, and what this uses is just a nine volt trigger source associated with some carburetor
cleaner. It triggers the actual injector and then you
can flush the carburetor cleaner straight through the injector. So let me get the set up on one of them and
I’ll show you how it works. Just a little bit of silicon spray to make
it easier for that to go in there. Yeah, I think this will work. When you’re tightening this down you don’t
have to really put a lot of torque on it, you’re just basically holding the injector
still. That’s all that needs to be accomplished. Plug this in and get my fish bowl over here
so you can see what happens. The trick when you’re doing this is not to
hold the injector open for long. You just want to do small pulses and you want
to be to have this synchronized. So I think these can be saved pretty easily. So what I’m gonna do is go ahead and clean
this last one, then pull the other three, clean all of those, then get these actual
throttle bodies cleaned up a little bit. Then I’m gonna order new o-rings and seals
for the injectors. When they come in, then we’ll put it all back
together. I’m not really excited about that crack right
here, so I’m gonna go and replace this one. The rest of them I’m gonna reuse. So next on the agenda, I’m gonna carry both
of the throttle bodies and the intakes over to the parts washer, see if I can get them
cleaned up a little bit. Get those parts ordered and then we put it
back together. Well, we have all our new seals and our one
injector that we’re actually going to replace. So with it all laid out on the table, let’s
start putting it back together. The first thing we’re gonna do is replace
all of our O-rings and our seals on our existing injectors and then we’re gonna get them installed
into the fuel rail and get it bolted back together. Nothing all that technical about this, just
remove the old O-rings and seals, pop on the new ones. When you’re doing this, make sure there’s
no corrosion or any type of debris in between the injector and these little O-rings. Alright we’re about to get our injectors installed
into the fuel rail and the intakes. Want to use a little bit of silicone spray
to make it easier for those o-rings to guide in. Takes a little bit of effort to get these
in there. I think I’m going to use a glove the next
time around. One more spray on the other O-rings then off
we go. Get our spacers in, just get it started. Let’s use our bolts to go ahead and bring
everything down. There we go. That’s looking good. One bank down, one more to go. There you have it. Let’s get the bench out of the way and get
these bolted back up to the engine. I had to go get the dowels out of the previous
head and transfer them over to here. Give me a second to get that done and we’ll
get everything mounted back up. So let’s get her closed up. There she goes. Everybody’s in there just hand tight. Let’s go ahead and get these snugged down. Everything’s tightened down. Let’s go ahead and make our electrical connections. Gets a little tight with the injector connections. I believe that’s our fuel pump. Get our fuel line. Next, let’s get the throttle linkage in place. Let’s get our fuel pump cable and it goes
to a little attachment point right here. Let’s go and get the intake over on the opposite
side. It’s basically the same game as what we just
did. Be careful there, I actually let the gasket
slide over a little bit and get off that dowel, so don’t make that same mistake. Alright this harness looks okay, I don’t think
we need to do any rewrapping on it. Go ahead and get our linkage over here before
it gets covered up. Go ahead and reconnect our fuel lines– our
cross connects rather. Slowly but surely she’s starting to fall together. Alright, sometimes we end up having to take
one step backwards to go forwards. This is one of those cases. When I installed the flywheel, I forgot to
put this vent pipe and it actually mounts on these two bolts and sits in there roughly
like this and then goes to the intake plenum. So we’re gonna back up a little bit, we’re
gonna take off the flywheel, get this mounted up, and then we’ll continue. Alright, with that bolt out of the way, we
just need to put on a puller and get it removed. No big deal. There she goes. Now we just need to remove these two bolts,
get that vent line in place, then put it back together. Order of operations very important sometimes. Now let’s get it back on there. And keep in mind the magnets are gonna try
to pull it in, so don’t get your fingers under it otherwise they’ll get pinched. There we go. Now we’re gonna use our holder ,definitely
gonna extend it out all the way because we have to take this nut to a hundred and seventy
four foot-pounds. Without throwing out my back. Woohoo, fun stuff. Next let’s go ahead and get our intake silencer
set up. These seals that they had, or well you can
look at them. There’s cracking, falling apart, and we’ve
gone this far we’re gonna go ahead and make sure it’s perfect. So let’s get these off and getting the new
ones put on. So no great trick to these. Just peel them off, we’ll get the new ones
put on, and get these installed. So now that we’ve got our seals on, what we’re
gonna do is put both of our silencers together, get these new zip ties put on, and then we’ll
put on both pair as an assembly. Makes it a lot easier than trying to do it
after the fact and get these boots to line up. Trying to do all of that when it’s already
mounted? You really can’t pull it off. So next let’s get a couple of zip ties, put
those around the boots, and then we put the whole assembly on. And to make these easier to get in, we’re
gonna spray them down with a little bit of silicone and just put it on as an assembly. So basically you only have four bolts or nuts
holding it in place. Two nuts up here and then a couple of bolts
here and here. Once you get one or two of this started it’ll
start to shimmy its way in. One up top and one down low. Get this little crossover pipe in place. So we had two nuts up here then two bolts
here and here for the side and we just had the same thing to do on the other. Alright, now let’s get our cover on and we
will almost be through with this. This part anyway. Alright campers, this pretty much wraps up
at this build. What’s going to happen next? Well I need to address the corrosion issue
with the exhaust before I can get the powerhead re-mounted. Now if you’d like to see that happen, why
don’t you hit that subscribe button. That way you’ll be notified when we release
the video. Until then, we just want to say thank you
for shopping here with us at Boats.net and we will see you in the next video. Y’all have a great day.

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